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Buffalo Grass In Austin, Texas

12/7/2020

3 Comments

 
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What is Buffalo Grass?
Buffalo grass as the new lawn alternative, Buchloe dactyloides, is a perennial grass native to North America. In Texas, this grass is found from the south central region to the High Plains region. It requires full sun but can withstand partial shade. It is a warm season grass that becomes dormant in cold temperatures, which may turn brown from mid-fall through mid-spring. Buffalo grass is fine-textured, curly, vibrant, and dark green in color. You can grow buffalo grass lawns by seeding (burs) or laying sod.
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Buffalo grass is dioecious. It has both male and female plants. Male plants contain stamens while female plants contain pistils. These male and female plants produce seeds. Male (Staminate) plants are white-colored, have a flag type, one-sided spike pollen head while female (Pistillate) plants are often green-colored, and have short spikes. Buffalo being a dioecious grass mean it has both male and female plants. Usually found in patches. Poor germination of seeds or burs may affect the production of buffalo grass.

Is Buffalo Grass A Good Grass For Austin Lawns?

Buffalo grass is a common alternative to other types of grass that are commonly used in Austin, namely St. Augustine, Zoysia, Ryegrass, and Bermuda grass.  Good news for Austin homeowners who are looking for a type of grass that requires less irrigation. Buffalo grass could be the perfect one for you as it is drought tolerant and can tolerate extreme temperatures. 

Know more about Bufflograss below:
 
Strengths: Heat and drought tolerant, very cold tolerant, low maintenance, invulnerable to diseases.

Weaknesses: Intolerant of excessive foot traffic, not recommended in high rainfall areas, difficult to establish from seed, intolerant of sandy soils, prone to weed invasion during dormant season

Buffalo Grass Installation
Buffalo grass can be installed anytime of the year but ideally in Spring. Buffalo sod needs to be installed right after it is delivered as it dries out fast especially in hot weather. If the weather is hot on the day of the installation, lay the turf in sections and water each section. It takes about two weeks for the buffalo grass to establish. Ensure proper watering to avoid root rot, diseases, and weeds.​ According to Colorado State University Extension, proper irrigation is crucial during the root formation period.
  • Roll out the turf around the area to be laid and press down on the turf to improve contact with the soil.
  • Lay each roll next to each other.
  • Ensure that all soil is covered.
  • Soak the newly installed turf for 10-14 days until established.
  • Minimize irrigation as the temperature gets cold.
Buffalo Seeds
It can be difficult to establish buffalo grass from seed as it has often low germination rate. Treated seed germination however is much higher. That is why it is important to treat the seed and should be planted in dry conditions. Ideally during spring and summer. It takes 7 to 10 days for the seed to germinate. Buffalo seeding rate is 1-3 pounds per 1,000 square feet at a depth of half an inch or less. Make sure that the soil to be used is rock and debris free.
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Buffalo Grass Maintenance 
Buffalo grass is low growing, usually reaches about 12 inches long but drapes over which makes the turf appear short. It requires little maintenance. There is no need for frequent mowing and watering as the grass simply needs a moderate amount of moisture. One inch of water per week is enough to maintain a healthy green buffalo grass turf. Buffalo grass can be mowed up to 3 inches high. Although, be mindful of the weeds that buffalo grass tends to get. Regular fertilization and hand weeding are key to this problem.
 
How to repair a damaged buffalo lawn?
As we have mentioned, one of the weaknesses of buffalo grass is that, it is intolerant of excessive foot traffic. Foot traffic by us, and even by our little furry friends may damage our buffalo lawn. Simply because it may cause soil compaction. Once the soil is compacted, it will affect the rate of water infiltration and drainage. 
 
Solution:
Core Aeration and Organic Fertilization! Core Aeration alleviates soil compaction which helps oxygen, water, and nutrients penetrate deeper into the ground. Fertilize every three months, and aerate once or twice a year. Consider re-levelling any lower areas after aerating to avoid lumps and an uneven lawn.  An uneven lawn can be challenging to mow.

Weed Problem?
Buffalo lawns have the ability to resist weeds. But they sometimes grow in buffalo lawns typically in summer and winter. 
 
Solution:
Kill those nasty weeds by pulling them out by hand while they are still small because once they grow bigger and set seed, it becomes difficult to get rid of them.  Control them while you still can as they can spread all over your lawn quickly. If you want to be extra cautious. you can fertilize your lawn using organic fertilizer once every three months.
 
Buffalo grass losing its beautiful color?
Buffalo grass turning brown in cold temperatures or due to poor maintenance is inevitable.
 
Solution:
Proper lawn care maintenance! While buffalo lawns are low maintenance, do not take them for granted. It is important to ensure that you give your lawn the proper care it needs: Regular fertilization, mowing, and correct watering. Water your lawn daily for about 15 minutes per zone if you have irrigation or 30 minutes per area if watering by hand. Especially if it is very hot outside. 

 
Please keep in mind that buffalo grass is only recommended for areas that are not used regularly. It will not grow in areas that are used heavily as it will lead to deterioration of the quality of buffalo grass. 

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Unlock the Full Potential of Your Lawn Organically: The Comprehensive Guide to Top Dressing Benefits

11/23/2020

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Showing Lawn Top Dressing
Showing Lawn Top Dressing
Top dressing is a lawn care technique that involves the application of a thin layer of organic or inorganic material, such as compost, sand, or a blend of these, over the surface of a lawn. This method has been widely used by professional turf managers and is now gaining popularity among homeowners looking to improve their lawn's health and appearance. In this blog post, we'll explore the numerous benefits of top dressing your lawn in detail.
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TOP DRESSING KEY BENEFITS
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Top Dressing Service
Top Dressing Service
1. Improved Soil Structure and Drainage

One of the primary benefits of top dressing is its ability to enhance soil structure, leading to better drainage and aeration. By adding organic matter or sand to heavy clay soils, the top dressing can help break up compaction and create channels for water and air to move more freely. This process reduces the likelihood of standing water, decreases runoff, and prevents soil compaction, allowing your lawn to develop a robust root system. By incorporating organic matter and fine-textured materials into the existing soil, top dressing can help create a more stable, well-aerated soil structure that supports healthy root growth and nutrient uptake.

Soil structure refers to the arrangement of soil particles (sand, silt, and clay) and the pore spaces between them. A well-structured soil is characterized by a balance of large and small pore spaces that allow for adequate air and water movement, as well as sufficient nutrient availability. 

Top dressing enhances the soil's physical properties, promoting a healthier lawn by optimizing root growth and nutrient uptake. The process involves the careful selection of an appropriate top dressing material, typically a blend of sand, loam, and organic matter, which is then applied to the lawn's surface. This material is carefully chosen based on the soil type and the lawn's specific needs to achieve the best results.

When applied to the lawn, the top dressing material works its way into the soil profile through natural processes like rain, irrigation, and soil microbial activity. Over time, this leads to the formation of a more stable and porous soil structure, known as "aggregates." Soil aggregates are essential for maintaining adequate aeration, water infiltration, and root penetration. A well-aggregated soil allows roots to grow deeper and more extensive, providing the grass with better access to essential nutrients and water. This leads to a more resilient lawn that can withstand various stresses like drought, heat, and foot traffic.

Other top dressing materials, such as compost, contain a high amount of organic matter, which plays a vital role in improving soil structure. When added to the soil, organic matter promotes the aggregation of soil particles, forming stable soil crumbs or aggregates. These aggregates create larger pore spaces, which improve the soil's drainage and aeration. This enhanced soil structure fosters the growth of a robust root system, ultimately leading to healthier, more resilient lawn.

In addition to improving soil structure, top dressing also helps address drainage issues in lawns. If your lawn has areas where water pools or remains soggy, applying a top dressing material with high sand content can help improve drainage. The sand particles increase the size of pore spaces, allowing water to move more freely through the soil profile, preventing waterlogged conditions that can lead to shallow root systems, fungal diseases, and other lawn problems.

Top dressing is a highly effective way to improve soil structure and drainage, which are critical components of a healthy, vibrant lawn. The addition of organic matter and fine-textured materials helps create a well-aerated, well-drained soil that supports robust root growth and optimal nutrient uptake, ultimately resulting in a more resilient and attractive turf.
Top Dressing Service 1 Year Later
Top Dressing Service 1 Year Later


2. Enhanced Nutrient Availability and Retention

In addition to improving soil structure, top dressing can also positively impact soil chemistry. The incorporation of organic matter in the top dressing material contributes to a more balanced soil pH, improved cation exchange capacity (CEC), and increased availability of essential macro and micronutrients. CEC is a measure of the soil's ability to hold and exchange nutrients like potassium, calcium, and magnesium, which are vital for plant growth. A higher CEC means that the soil can effectively supply the necessary nutrients to the grass, leading to a healthier and more vibrant lawn. 

By enhancing the soil's structure and composition, top dressing provides the foundation for a thriving lawn that is better equipped to handle the various environmental and physical stresses it may encounter throughout the year. With a healthier root system and improved access to essential nutrients and water, your lawn will be able to grow more robustly and maintain a vibrant, green appearance even in challenging conditions.

Top dressing with compost or other organic materials can significantly improve the nutrient content of your soil. As the organic matter breaks down, it releases essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, making them more readily available for your grass to utilize. Additionally, the improved soil structure resulting from top dressing promotes better nutrient retention, ensuring that your lawn has access to the nutrients it needs for optimal growth and health.
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Soil Beneficial Microbes
Soil Beneficial Microbes
3. Increased Microbial Activity

Organic top dressing materials, such as compost, are teeming with beneficial microorganisms that contribute to a healthy soil ecosystem. These microbes play a crucial role in breaking down organic matter and converting nutrients into forms that your grass can easily absorb. By fostering a thriving microbial community, top dressing supports the natural processes that keep your lawn healthy and resilient.

One of the key benefits of top dressing is that it promotes a healthy, diverse population of microorganisms within the soil. These microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, and protozoa, play a critical role in nutrient cycling, soil structure formation, and overall plant health. They decompose organic matter in the top dressing material, releasing essential nutrients for plant uptake and creating humus, which helps to improve soil structure.

The beneficial microorganisms break down the organic matter in the top dressing, releasing essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are vital for plant growth. This process, known as mineralization, ensures that the grass has access to a slow-release, natural source of nutrients, promoting steady, healthy growth without the risk of nutrient leaching or pollution associated with synthetic fertilizers.

Another significant benefit of top dressing is its ability to improve the availability and retention of essential nutrients in the soil. A well-balanced, nutrient-rich soil is crucial for maintaining a healthy and vibrant lawn.

The organic matter present in top dressing materials, such as compost, is an excellent source of essential nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients. As organic matter breaks down, these nutrients are slowly released into the soil, providing a steady supply for turfgrass to absorb.

Moreover, the presence of beneficial microorganisms in the soil can help to suppress various diseases and pests that can damage your lawn. Some microbes produce natural antibiotics or other compounds that inhibit the growth of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, while others can compete with harmful organisms for resources, effectively crowding them out and reducing their impact on your lawn.

For example, certain strains of beneficial bacteria, such as Bacillus subtilis and Pseudomonas fluorescens, have been shown to suppress diseases like dollar spot and brown patch in turfgrass. Similarly, mycorrhizal fungi, which form symbiotic relationships with plant roots, can improve the overall health and stress tolerance of the grass, making it more resistant to diseases and pests.

In addition to providing nutrients, the organic matter in top dressing materials also plays a vital role in enhancing the soil's nutrient-holding capacity. Organic matter can bind to soil particles, creating a more extensive surface area for nutrients to attach to and be retained in the soil. This nutrient retention prevents nutrients from leaching or washing away with rainfall, ensuring that they remain available for plant uptake.

Organic matter can improve the soil's cation exchange capacity (CEC). CEC is a measure of the soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrient ions, such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium. A higher CEC means that the soil can better retain these essential nutrients, making them readily available to turfgrass roots.

By improving nutrient availability and retention, top dressing can contribute to a more nutrient-rich, fertile soil that supports healthy turfgrass growth. This results in a stronger, more resilient lawn that can better withstand environmental stresses, diseases, and pests. In addition, the slow release of nutrients from organic matter helps to maintain a steady supply of essential nutrients, reducing the need for additional synthetic fertilizers and promoting more sustainable lawn care practices.

Furthermore, a healthy microbial population can improve nutrient availability in the soil. Certain bacteria and fungi, known as mycorrhizae, form symbiotic relationships with plant roots, effectively extending their reach and helping them access water and nutrients that would otherwise be unavailable. This increased nutrient availability can lead to a stronger, healthier lawn with fewer nutrient deficiencies and a complete elimination of synthetic fertilizers.

Top dressing also supports the growth and activity of other beneficial soil organisms, such as earthworms. Earthworms are known as "nature's plow" because they create channels through the soil as they burrow, improving aeration and water infiltration. Earthworm castings, or excrement, are rich in nutrients and organic matter, further enhancing soil fertility.

By fostering a thriving soil ecosystem through top dressing, you not only improve the health and appearance of your lawn but also contribute to a more sustainable and environmentally friendly approach to lawn care. This focus on supporting soil life is a key aspect of organic and regenerative landscaping practices, which prioritize long-term soil health and ecosystem functioning over short-term cosmetic results.
Top Dressing Effects
Top Dressing Effects
4. Weed Suppression and Disease Resistance

A dense, well-established lawn is the best defense against weeds and lawn diseases. Top dressing helps to create an environment in which your grass can thrive, outcompeting opportunistic weeds and minimizing the likelihood of disease outbreaks. The improved soil structure and nutrient availability that result from top dressing promote the growth of strong, healthy grass, making it more resistant to pests and pathogens. By adding organic matter to the soil through top dressing, you provide a valuable food source for these beneficial microorganisms, encouraging their growth and proliferation. A diverse and robust microbial population can help to suppress harmful pathogens and pests, reducing the need for chemical interventions and promoting a more resilient lawn.



5. Enhanced Drought Tolerance

Top dressing can improve your lawn's ability to withstand periods of drought. By improving soil structure and water retention, top dressing allows your grass to access water more efficiently, making it more resilient during times of water scarcity. Additionally, the organic matter in the top dressing material can help to regulate soil temperature, reducing moisture loss through evaporation.


6. Thatch Reduction and Decomposition

Thatch is a layer of dead grass and other organic material that can accumulate on the soil surface, impeding water, nutrient, and air penetration. Top dressing can help to break down thatch by introducing beneficial microorganisms that aid in the decomposition process. Furthermore, the improved soil structure and aeration resulting from top dressing can help prevent the buildup of excessive thatch in the first place.


7. Improved Lawn Appearance and Smoothness

Top dressing can significantly enhance the aesthetic appeal of your lawn. By filling in small depressions and leveling uneven areas, top dressing creates a smoother, more uniform surface. This not only improves the overall appearance of your lawn but also makes it more enjoyable and safer for recreational activities.


8. Seed Germination and Establishment Support

When combined with overseeding, top dressing can provide an ideal environment for new grass seed to germinate and establish. The top dressing material helps to maintain consistent moisture levels, while the improved soil structure and nutrient availability support the growth and development of the newly emerging grass.

Top dressing provides an optimal environment for grass seed germination and establishment, making it an essential step in overseeding or spot-seeding efforts. The application of a thin layer of top dressing material creates a seedbed that maintains the right balance of moisture, air, and warmth – all crucial factors for seed germination.

When seeds are sown into the top dressing layer, they benefit from improved seed-to-soil contact, which is essential for proper germination. The top dressing material helps retain moisture around the seeds, preventing them from drying out, while also allowing for adequate oxygen exchange. This moisture retention is particularly crucial in areas with inconsistent rainfall or during periods of drought.

Furthermore, the top dressing material acts as a thermal buffer, protecting the seeds from extreme temperature fluctuations that can be detrimental to germination. By maintaining a more consistent temperature around the seeds, top dressing promotes a higher germination rate and faster seedling emergence.

The organic matter in the top dressing material also contributes to the establishment of new grass plants by providing a readily available source of nutrients. As the organic matter decomposes, it releases essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are vital for seedling growth and development. The increased nutrient availability helps the newly germinated grass plants establish a robust root system and promotes vigorous shoot growth.

In summary, top dressing plays a critical role in enhancing grass seed germination and establishment by providing an optimal environment for seed development. The improved seed-to-soil contact, moisture retention, temperature regulation, and nutrient availability all contribute to a more successful overseeding or spot-seeding effort, resulting in a thicker, healthier, and more resilient lawn.


Conclusion
Top dressing is a versatile and highly effective lawn care technique that offers numerous benefits to homeowners looking to improve their lawn's health and appearance. By addressing issues like soil compaction, nutrient availability, weed and disease resistance, and thatch buildup, top dressing provides a comprehensive solution for many common lawn problems.
As you consider implementing top dressing as part of your lawn care routine, remember that it's essential to choose the appropriate material and apply it correctly for the best results. Consulting with a lawn care professional or conducting thorough research can help you determine the right approach for your specific lawn needs.
In conclusion, top dressing is an investment in the long-term health and beauty of your lawn. By understanding and harnessing its numerous benefits, you can create a lush, vibrant outdoor space that you and your family can enjoy for years to come.

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Importance of Organic Weeding

10/27/2020

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Organic weeding is important for maintaining a healthy and sustainable garden or landscape without relying on synthetic herbicides or harmful chemicals. Here are some of the key benefits of organic weeding:
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  1. Environmental benefits: Organic weeding avoids the use of synthetic herbicides and chemicals that can be harmful to the environment, including groundwater and soil. By using natural and organic methods of weed control, gardeners can promote a healthier and more sustainable environment.
  2. Health benefits: Organic weeding also avoids the risks associated with exposure to harmful chemicals found in synthetic herbicides. By using natural methods of weed control, gardeners can reduce their exposure to these harmful substances, promoting better health for themselves and their families.
  3. Soil health: Organic weeding can also help to maintain healthy soil by avoiding the use of synthetic chemicals that can disrupt soil ecology and reduce beneficial microorganisms. Natural and organic weed control methods like mulching, hand pulling, and hoeing can help to maintain a healthy balance of microorganisms in the soil.
  4. Cost-effective: Organic weeding is also cost-effective, as it avoids the need for expensive synthetic herbicides and chemicals. Natural weed control methods like hand pulling and mulching can be done with basic tools and supplies that are readily available.
  5. Long-term benefits: Organic weeding promotes long-term benefits for the garden or landscape by creating healthier soil and reducing the impact of weeds on plant growth. By using natural and organic methods of weed control, gardeners can help to promote a healthier and more sustainable landscape for years to come.
In summary, organic weeding is important for promoting a healthier and more sustainable garden or landscape without relying on synthetic herbicides or harmful chemicals. By using natural and organic methods of weed control, gardeners can promote a healthier environment, reduce health risks associated with synthetic chemicals, maintain healthy soil, save money, and promote long-term benefits for their garden or landscape.
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Hauling  Away Large Trees in Land Clearing

10/23/2020

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Hauling of organic debris is one of the most difficult and time consuming tasks around the lawn. It is definitely not fun to do. Imagine hauling away tree trimmings on your own. Carrying heavy lawn debris, loading them to your car, travelling to the disposal center, or even buying or renting hauling equipment. Free yourself from any injuries too and leave the work to us. Did you know that you do not just save yourself time when you hire us?  You also save money. How many trips do you need to do from your house to the disposal center if you do the hauling on your own? Gas and toll expenses are obviously not cheap. These are just some of the things you check off the list when you hire professionals. Professionals like us can do the job for you in a timelier and more efficient manner - from collection to disposal. How? We do this day and night, all day, every day, year after year. Imagine us competing with you in your own industry? That's a no contest.​

​One of our recent projects in 2020 was to work on a 3-acre lot to haul away organic tree debris including uprooting massive root balls. It required both manual work such as chopping of tree branches and limbs and the use of excavator for lifting and moving. The organic debris were then safely hauled and properly disposed at the disposal center. A team of two was able to finish this job in 5 hours. Our crews are key to  successfully complete heavy tasks such as this.
For projects like this, we send an estimator on site for FREE.  Got no time to meet our estimator on site? Not a problem at all. You do not need to be present at the time of the assessment as long as our estimator can access the property. Give us a call  from Mondays-Saturdays 8PM to 5PM (844) 50K-LAWN or you may also contact us via chat here on our website to set up an account and  schedule the FREE onsite visit on the next earliest availability. Assessments during the onsite visit will then be forwarded to our office for review and final checking. For your convenience, the final estimate will be sent to you via email and text for your approval. Once approved, you may click on the "Review and Pay Deposit" button to approve the quotation and setup your automated billing. You may also opt out of automated billing by unchecking the "Save for future use" box, but we require prepayment on the onset of every relationship. The project will then be scheduled on a slow week depending on how big the project is. The service will be divided into consecutive visits and the duration per visit will depend on the day’s route. Should you have more questions or concerns, feel free to contact us.

And now an afterthought section for DO IT YOURSELFERS, a rarity in our blog. 

Hauling away large trees in land clearing can be a challenging task, but with the right equipment and techniques, it can be done efficiently and safely. Here are the steps to follow when hauling away large trees:
  1. Assess the situation: Before hauling away large trees, it's important to assess the situation and identify any potential hazards. Make sure the trees are stable and secure, and identify any obstacles or hazards in the path of the tree removal.
  2. Use the right equipment: To haul away large trees, you'll need a variety of equipment, including chainsaws, winches, and heavy-duty trailers. Make sure all equipment is in good working order and that all safety precautions are followed.
  3. Cut the tree into manageable sections: Large trees should be cut into manageable sections before hauling them away. This makes it easier to load them onto the trailer and transport them safely. Use a chainsaw to cut the tree into sections, starting from the top and working your way down.
  4. Secure the tree sections to the trailer: Once the tree sections are cut, they should be secured to the trailer with chains or straps. Make sure the load is balanced and that the weight is evenly distributed on the trailer.
  5. Transport the tree sections: When transporting the tree sections, be sure to follow all safety precautions, including driving slowly and carefully, securing the load with straps or chains, and using caution when turning or stopping.
  6. Dispose of the tree sections: Once the tree sections have been transported, they can be disposed of in a variety of ways, including chipping, recycling, or disposal at a landfill or designated facility.
In summary, hauling away large trees in land clearing requires the use of the right equipment and techniques to ensure safety and efficiency. By following these steps, you can safely and efficiently remove large trees and dispose of them in an environmentally responsible manner.

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Agave 101

10/1/2020

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Agaves have grayish-blue to bluish-green leaves and long spines at the tips. They are extremely drought tolerant, slow-growing, and propagate in dry and gravelly soils. These plants live between 10-25 years and produce a flower stalk of up to 15 feet tall. They can weigh around 500 pounds or even tons, and occupy a space of around 5 feet to 40 feet in diameter when fully grown.

Here are the 3 things you need to know before planting an agave:

First, agaves should be planted away from people. They have long spines that can be a safety concern to children and pets. A workaround if you already have an agave planted near a walkway or side street is to trim the spines at the tips of the leaves with garden clippers. Agave spines do not grow back after getting cut, and so you only need to worry about new growth as time passes by.

Second, agaves are very large when fully grown and should be planted with proper distance from existing structures. Walls and fences will eventually be pushed until one cracks or breaks. Agaves are deeply rooted and heavy plants. One should be mindful of how the area around the agave plant will be used. Is it just dead space, a property line, an area you do not want people to go to? Surely, one will not want to place an agave in front of one's front door if one plans to still keep using that front door. But we digress, because it is far too common to find professionals in the real world to not just do but even extensively plan exactly what we exhaustively described here not to do. Maybe due to the fact that it could unimaginable to think that a 3-gallon agave baby plant will eventually grow to become a 10 ft monster? Maybe.

Third, agaves must be planted far away from towering deciduous trees. Sometimes, we find agaves on areas they should not be planted on, like a sunny patch of land 15 feet away from a Live Oak Tree. Live Oaks are deciduous trees, and like all deciduous trees, they regularly shed leaves. These leaves tend to collect underneath the foliage of an agave plant. The leaves when left alone will retain moisture and become the perfect home for cockroaches, spiders, mosquitoes, snakes, and even rats. Agaves within the city limits should therefore be used sparingly and with utmost awareness of planting intentions and use of the vicinity.

Now, what do you do if you already have an existing agave planted in all the wrong places as described above?

We always recommend to transplant any plant if it is still small or can be transplanted safely. This, however, is rarely the case when it comes to agaves. The reason you are here is probably because your specific agave is already too large for a 3-man crew with a jack to lift. In this case, transplanting is worse than saving the plant. We are risking a lot to transplant an agave plant that is already 50/50 once lifted off the ground. In such cases, we recommend to remove the agave by cutting it down to small portions, and reusing, repurposing, and recycling the entire plant for other uses, like soap, antiseptic, or a much needed addition to your compost pile.


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Tips to Be Done at Fall

9/30/2020

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1. Prune + cut shrubs and trees
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Pruning in early fall may also stimulate new growth, which has little time to harden before cold weather comes. 
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2. Tidy up the garden: edge it!
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Use a sharp, flat-headed tool, such as a spade, to cut a clean line between the beds and the lawn. This will give your garden a tidy appearance over the winter, and give you a head start on spring's chores.
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3. Put in some green
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When the weather changes, some plants break down all the green pigment. Leaves turn yellow or red in fall.
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4. Cold Tolerant annuals for Fall Color 
If you live in a climate with frost and cold, these plants will keep your beds and containers lovely as long as possible.
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5. Clean-up leaves
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Remove leaves and other plant debris from the lawn. If left on the grass through the winter, a thick pile of debris could cause bare spots and letting them pack down can smother the lawn and create conditions ripe for diseases.
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What is mulch labile carbon?

9/29/2020

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Mulch labile carbon refers to the amount of carbon present in the organic matter that makes up mulch, and how easily it can be broken down or consumed by soil microorganisms. The labile carbon in mulch is an important component in the soil carbon cycle and can contribute to soil health and fertility by providing a source of energy for beneficial microorganisms. Mulch with a higher labile carbon content is more likely to be quickly consumed and broken down, leading to faster nutrient cycling and a more rapid improvement in soil quality.
After results of high quality mulch delivery and installation service in Austin, Texas.
After results of high quality mulch delivery and installation service in Austin, Texas.
Why should I lay high quality mulch with high labile carbon?
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High-quality mulch with high labile carbon content can be beneficial for your plants and soil. Labile carbon refers to the easily degradable or decomposable organic matter in the mulch. When mulch with high labile carbon is applied to the soil, it can stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms, which can help break down the organic matter in the soil and release nutrients for the plants to use. This can result in healthier plants with improved growth and yields. Additionally, high-quality mulch can help to suppress weeds, conserve soil moisture, and regulate soil temperature, all of which can contribute to a healthier, more vibrant garden.
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MULCH: Why? What? When? Where (ELSE)? and How?

9/26/2020

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Mulch Delivery and Installation Service in Austin TexasMulch Delivery and Installation Service in Austin Texas
UPDATED FOR 2023 WITH LESSONS LEARNED FOR THE PAST 8 YEARS

Why Install Mulch?
Mulch Installation can improve your soil conditions and maintain moisture to keep plants healthy and green, and can exponentially increase the curb appeal of your home. It is the most cost-effective improvements a homeowner, property manager, and realtor can do before move-ins, selling, events, holidays, or special occasions. This is part of basic landscaping 101.

In more detail, mulch serves several purposes in gardens and landscapes:
1. Weed suppression: A layer of mulch blocks sunlight, making it difficult for weed seeds to germinate and grow.
2. Moisture retention: Mulch helps to conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation, which is especially beneficial during dry periods.
3. Temperature regulation: Mulch acts as an insulator, helping to regulate soil temperature by keeping it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.
4. Soil health improvement: Organic mulches decompose over time, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil, which improves its structure, fertility, and overall health.
5. Erosion prevention: A layer of mulch can help protect the soil from erosion by reducing the impact of heavy rain and wind on the soil surface.
6. Aesthetic appeal: Mulch can provide a clean, finished look to garden beds and landscape areas, enhancing the overall appearance of your outdoor spaces.

What Is The Right Mulch?
The right mulch depends on your specific needs and preferences.

Some common types of mulch include:
1. Organic mulches: Wood chips, bark, shredded leaves, grass clippings, straw, and compost. These mulches break down over time and improve soil health.
2. Inorganic mulches: Gravel, stones, and rubber mulch. These mulches do not decompose and may be more suitable for areas where soil enrichment is not desired or for more permanent installations.

Consider factors such as cost, availability, appearance, and the specific needs of your plants when choosing the right mulch for your garden or landscape.

When to Install Mulch?
The best time to install mulch depends on your climate and the goals you want to achieve:
1. For temperature regulation and moisture retention, apply mulch in late spring or early summer, when the soil has warmed up and plants are actively growing.
2. For weed suppression, you can apply mulch at any time, but it's most effective when done early in the growing season before weeds have a chance to establish.
3. For winter protection, apply mulch in late fall after the ground has started to freeze to help insulate plant roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. 

Where (Else) Do We Install Mulch?
In addition to garden beds and landscapes, mulch can be installed in various locations:
1. Around trees and shrubs to suppress weeds and conserve moisture.
2. In pathways and walkways to create a clean, comfortable surface for walking and to suppress weed growth.
3. In playground areas, using materials like rubber mulch, to create a soft, cushioned surface that reduces the risk of injury. 4. On slopes and hillsides to prevent soil erosion and stabilize the area.
5. In vegetable gardens to improve soil health, retain moisture, and suppress weeds around plants.

How Do We Install The Mulch and Maintain It?
Organically maintaining and installing mulch without using chemicals is a straightforward process that involves selecting the right type of organic mulch, proper application, and regular maintenance. Here's a step-by-step guide:
  1. Choose the right organic mulch: Select an organic mulch that suits your specific needs and preferences. Common organic mulches include wood chips, bark, shredded leaves, grass clippings, straw, and compost. These materials decompose over time, enriching the soil with nutrients and organic matter.
  2. Prepare the area: Before installing mulch, clear the area of weeds and debris. If possible, remove existing weeds by hand or using a hoe, making sure to remove the roots to prevent regrowth. If needed, you can also use a layer of cardboard or newspaper to smother existing weeds before applying mulch.
  3. Apply the mulch: Spread a layer of organic mulch evenly over the prepared area. The recommended depth varies depending on the type of mulch used: a. For wood chips or bark: 2-4 inches deep. b. For shredded leaves or grass clippings: 1-2 inches deep. c. For straw or compost: 3-4 inches deep. When mulching around plants, keep the mulch 1-2 inches away from the stems or trunks to prevent rot and discourage pests.
  4. Monitor and maintain: Regularly inspect the mulched areas for signs of weed growth, and remove any weeds that emerge promptly. As organic mulches decompose over time, it's essential to replenish the mulch layer to maintain its effectiveness. Typically, you'll need to add new mulch annually or biannually, depending on the type of mulch and the rate of decomposition.
  5. Watering considerations: Organic mulches can affect soil moisture levels. Check the soil under the mulch regularly to ensure it's not too wet or too dry. Adjust your watering schedule accordingly to maintain optimal moisture levels for your plants.
By following these steps, you can effectively install and maintain organic mulch without using chemicals, promoting a healthy, sustainable garden or landscape.
​Need more help? Please contact us for a free onsite estimate, and we will get back to you as soon as possible.  Found us outside of our normal business hours? Reserve your spot in our schedule and order online, anytime!



Local Bulk Mulch Delivered and Installed

$12.93 - $777.10

Mulch delivery and mulch installation service at any point in Austin, Texas. Choose from either Brown or Black Mulch. Delivered fresh from our mulch recycling facility to your door at the day of service.


Why fresh mulch is best?

Fresh mulch are full of labile carbon, a major food source for soil microbes. This in time feeds the soil food web beneath the mulch.


Why don't you have red mulch?

Red mulch can be problematic. Here's an extensive explanation why.


How much mulch do I need?

Use our online mulch calculator in our FAQ section below.

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Different Colors of Mulch

9/26/2020

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​There are only three commonly – used dyed mulch colors:
​
Red Mulch – typically uses on a relatively commercial area such as line of restaurants, office building or a park. Its vibrant color applies good contrast to light plants and works well in rock gardens. It decomposes more quickly than other natural bark mulch, because it’s often made from recycled wood chips.
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​Brown Mulch – It is a universal color indeed. Its natural color makes both light and dark colored plants look vibrant when paired together. It works well in small areas but lose its pretty color after just one season. It compliments all shades of green for an easy choice in their yard.
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Black Mulch – It is use well in commercial areas because of it’s long lasting color. It attracts, retains heat and sunlight, not ideal to be used in areas with delicate plants. It works well in cooler regions but in hot climates it can affect plant growth.
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Basic Tips in Organic Feritlization

9/17/2020

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Organic fertilizers are a great option for promoting healthy plant growth without relying on synthetic chemicals. Here are some tips for using organic fertilizers effectively:
  1. Understand your soil: Before using organic fertilizers, it's important to understand the composition of your soil and what nutrients it needs. Soil testing can help you identify any deficiencies or imbalances in your soil, which can help you choose the right type of organic fertilizer and application rate.
  2. Choose the right type of organic fertilizer: There are many different types of organic fertilizers, including compost, manure, bone meal, and fish emulsion, among others. Each type of fertilizer has its own nutrient composition and release rate, so it's important to choose the right type of fertilizer for your specific needs.
  3. Apply the fertilizer at the right time: Organic fertilizers should be applied at the right time to ensure optimal plant growth. Generally, it's best to apply organic fertilizers in the spring and fall, when plants are actively growing and require the most nutrients. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application rates and timing.
  4. Use proper application techniques: Organic fertilizers should be applied evenly and at the proper depth to ensure optimal nutrient uptake by plants. This can be done using a broadcast spreader, by hand, or by incorporating the fertilizer into the soil. Be sure to avoid applying fertilizer too close to the stem or leaves of plants, which can cause burning or other damage.
  5. Use in conjunction with other organic practices: Organic fertilizers work best when used in conjunction with other organic practices, such as mulching, composting, and natural weed control methods. By creating a healthy and sustainable garden ecosystem, you can maximize the benefits of organic fertilizers and promote optimal plant growth.
In summary, organic fertilizers can be a great option for promoting healthy plant growth without relying on synthetic chemicals. By understanding your soil, choosing the right type of organic fertilizer, applying it at the right time and using proper application techniques, and using in conjunction with other organic practices, you can promote a healthy and sustainable garden or landscape.

​Soils often don’t provide essential plant nutrients required for optimum growth. We replenish lost nutrients on plants to ensure they have enough food by giving fertilizer.
Fertilizer replace lost nutrients in the soil; It has essential nutrients to plants like Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). Fertilized lawns that are well maintained is better for the environment.
Plants have six primary nutrients: Acquired from air and water – carbon, hydrogen and oxygen and the other one Comes from varying sources, including fertilizer – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium
Nitrogen – supports overall plant health and above-ground growth. It deepens green color in grasses and plant.
Phosphorus – is essential for strong root development. It improves fruit growth and seed production.
Potassium – necessary for optimum plant health. It improves water retention and protects plants from cold. 

​

FERTILIZATION

​Many gardeners fall under false impression that if their plants don’t produce or unhealthy – giving fertilizer will fix the problem. On the other hand, inappropriately giving fertilizer can result in unfruitful or unhealthy plants.

Basic Types of Fertilizer

Natural or Organic Based Fertilizer – came from plant, animal microbes or mineral. Examples of organic-based / ingredients include:
Plant – alfalfa, cottonseed meal or seaweed; Animal – bone meal or manure;
Microorganisms – heat-dried microbes and Mineral – green sand or rock phosphate
Synthetic or Non-Organic Fertilizer – a chemical nutrients that deliver rapidly.
There are advantages and disadvantages on quick release nutrients. Synthetic fertilizers deliver nutrients immediately taken up by plant roots. This immediate availability can burn plants if too much fertilizer is applied.
Any synthetic nutrients that do not absorb by the plants are very prone to leaching out of the landscape or garden beds. Synthetic fertilizers act as a water-soluble product, to be readily available for root uptake. They travel on out into the environment or into watersheds or aquifers, if they aren’t taken up. Therefore, careful and proper application must be provided.
However, organic nutrients are in a form that is not easily absorbed immediately.
​Organic based or natural fertilizer nutrients depend on microorganisms in the soil to break and digest those nutrients down into a form – then - available to be absorbed by plants. Natural fertilizer has a slow take effect in cold weather because the microorganisms in the soil are less active.
This process means organic based nutrients are not prone to leach and may contain a low salt index. There is a minimal risk of dehydration and burning, even in times of drought or over application.
Therefore, organic based fertilizers enrich the soil and provide ongoing effects.
A study in Stanford University determined that nitrate leached approximately five times on synthetic fertilizer than organic fertilizer.
​

FERTILIZER NUTRIENTS


​A fertilizer that is high in nitrogen boost lawn growth at the beginning of the growing season. Example providers are dried blood, blood meal, cottonseed meal, fish emulsion and seaweed extract or fish fertilizer.
A fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and potassium toughen up your plants or lawn for environmental stresses like drought or cold. Example providers are bone meal, rock phosphate.
A fertilizer that is high in phosphorus power up to bloom your shrubs and perennials. Example providers are greensand, sulfate of potash.
​Organic Nutrient Release Rates
Blood meal and types of manure – available to plant roots within 2–6 weeks.
Alfalfa, Clover and Rye - available to plant roots within 2–6 months.
Eggshells and Fish Emulsion – available to plants quickly often used within 2 weeks.
Heat dried microorganisms (microbes that ate well, died and dried to provide nutrients) available to plant up to 8-10 weeks
Organic ingredients help balance the soil to a neutral (6.5-7.0) pH. A good example is compost. As you add it to your soil, it will tend toward neutral.

WHY DOES IT MATTER?

We have to be wiser when it comes on spending money. We need to choose the one that can benefit us and our lawn. Synthetic fertilizers have quick results, but you need to be careful on following package directions and its nutrient levels need to be chosen wisely in order to prevent leaching that can contaminate our water resources. Organic fertilizers are slow moving but you can make long term investment of natural ingredients.
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Rescheduled visit?

9/7/2020

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Here's what to do!
As a professional lawn care service provider, we try our best to give you an exceptional customer experience to the best of our abilities. We take our time to service each and every one of you until we meet our standards. Your satisfaction is always our top priority. Having that said, the time we allot for each property that we service for a day’s route is unpredictable. Push backs and delays are inevitable especially in times of heavy rain and intense heat. But don’t fret. You’re automatically going to be rescheduled to the next available day. We are implementing a "First In - First Out" Scheduling System. This means we will be scheduling the first delayed clients and move the upcoming ones to the rest of the following days.

​Got any concerns? We are always eager to help!
You can always reach out to us seven days a week . You may call us at (844) 505-5296 Monday through Saturday 8 AM to 5 PM and on Sundays, you may send us a message via chat on our website, 8 AM to 5 PM.
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Fertilizer Tips

9/4/2020

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BASIC TIPS IN FERTILIZER

Soils often don’t provide essential plant nutrients required for optimum growth. We need to replenish loss nutrients on plants to ensure they have enough food by giving fertilizer. Fertilizer replaces lost nutrients in soil; It has essential nutrients to plants like Nitrogen , Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). Fertilized lawns that are well maintained is better for the environment. Plants has six primary nutrients: Acquired from air and water – carbon, hydrogen and oxygen and the other one Comes from varying sources, including fertilizer – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium Nitrogen – supports overall plant health and above ground growth. It deepens green color in grasses and plant. Phosphorus – is essential for strong root development. It improves fruit growth and seed production. Potassium – necessary for optimum plant health. It improves water retention and protects plants from cold.
Fertilizer replace lost nutrients in soil; It has essential nutrients to plants like Nitrogen , Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). Fertilized lawns that are well maintained is better for the environment. Plants has six primary nutrients: Acquired from air and water – carbon, hydrogen and oxygen and the other one Comes from varying sources, including fertilizer – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium Nitrogen – supports overall plant health and above ground growth. It deepens green color in grasses and plant. Phosphorus – is essential for strong root development. It improves fruit growth and seed production. Potassium – necessary for optimum plant health. It improves water retention and protects plants from cold.

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Organic Fertilizer FAQ

10/16/2019

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WHAT IS AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER?
Our organic fertilizer is composed of 85% organic matter. Organic matter decomposes and feeds the existing microbes. These microbes eventually die and release nutrients that are absorbed by grass and plant roots, which make the soil healthy enough to grow grass and other plants.
​

WHY USE ORGANIC FERTILIZER OVER SYNTHETIC FERTILIZER?
Synthetic fertilizer is very effective in getting quick results but actually does little to stimulate soil life, improve soil texture, composition, or improve long-term fertility. In fact, synthetic nitrates found in synthetic fertilizer are known to kill organic microbes found in soil. Moreover, synthetic fertilizers that are water soluble can very easily can overrun and reach our rivers, streams, and other natural waterways.  Applying too much synthetic fertilizer is also known to burn lawn and plants. All of these issues are virtually eliminated or lessened when using an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer provides benefits to both plants and soil and generally won’t burn or damage plants. It stimulates beneficial soil microbes and improves the soil structure. This is a developing science on its own, but current understanding suggests that soil microbes play a key role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients at a rate that can be absorbed by plants. Because the fertilizer is derived organically, the secondary micronutrients which are normally absent in synthetic fertilizer are available. Organic fertilizer also typically has a lower NPK analysis (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) than synthetic fertilizer, but organic fertilizer feeds grass and plants for a much longer period of time. As a result, despite having a subtle impact on lawn and plants, we generally get a greener lawn and plants for a much longer period of time.

WHAT DOES AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER DO?
Organic fertilizer adds organic matter that feeds the soil and slowly releases nitrogen into the lawn as it grows. Nitrogen is one of the 40+ essential nutrients in grass and plant growth, development, and reproduction. 

HOW DOES AERATION HELPS WITH ORGANIC FERTILIZATION?
Organic fertilizer goes hand in hand with aeration. Aeration makes it much easier for oxygen, water, and movable nutrients like nitrogen (N) to get into the soil and to be absorbed by the grass roots

WHAT ARE MOVABLE NUTRIENTS?
Movable or mobile nutrients are nitrogen (N) in the form of nitrate, phosphorus (P) in the form of phosphate, potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), chlorine (Cl), zinc (Zn), among others. Movable nutrients are important for plant growth and help in diagnosing plant nutrient deficiencies because a deficiency in any element can seriously inhibit plant development and show unique symptoms. 


WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED APPLICATION INTERVALS FOR GRASS?
Organic fertilization is recommended to be applied 5 times a year for best results. However, it can be applied any time during the growing season. Each application feeds for up to 10 weeks. This will result to fertilizing less while your grass gets all the nutrients it needs. Make sure to test the soil first before fertilizing as over-fertilization can negatively impact our environment. Yes, even when using organic fertilizer, excessive movable nutrients can overrun and reach our lakes, rivers, and other natural waterways causing algae, mass fish deaths, increase water toxicity, among others.

WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED ORGANIC FERTILIZATION APPLICATION FOR TREES AND SHRUBS?
For trees and shrubs plants, we recommend to fertilize trees and shrubs twice a year, once in spring and another in fall in preparation for its growing season in summer. Although, it is best to test the soil first to determine if the trees and shrubs need a nutritional boost.

COULD ORGANIC FERTILIZER PREVENT WEEDS?
There are many kinds of organic fertilizers, but one kind of organic fertilizer that stands out is the natural corn gluten meal. Natural corn gluten meal can be used in organic fertilization and treatment. It is like a natural weed and feed. Corn gluten is a byproduct of the corn milling process. Corn gluten in itself does not prevent weed seeds to grow. However, it prevents weed seeds from forming roots after germination. It can work as a pre-emergent herbicide and is most effective when applied just before weed germination. Corn gluten has an NPK of 10-0-0, a natural nitrogen source that breaks down over time. It also smells good.

​
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How to Control Crabgrass Organically.

6/21/2019

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We understand you are looking for answers for controlling crabgrass germination without the use of synthetic herbicides or harmful chemicals. Your time will not be wasted with information that are already available elsewhere online. We will dive deep into controlling crabgrass organically and methodically.

PREVENT CRABGRASS SEEDS FROM ROOTING

Your first goal is to control the crabgrass seeds from rooting in the first place. Since we service Austin, Texas, we really can't predict the weather every year. That is just a fact of life in our hometown. We have had very hot and humid winters on and off for the past... who knows how long? Forever? See, crabgrass propagates in hot weather, so a general rule of thumb is to be aware of crabgrass germination whenever the weather is projected to hit above 80F.  This can happen at anytime of the year. When it happens, follow our recommendations, and you will be off to a great start.
Natural Corn Gluten Meal Professional Storage
Store natural corn gluten meals in clean, dry, cool, and airtight containers. If you do not, it will rot. Do not ask us how we learned this, but definitely not in school, we can tell you that much. :) You will thank us later.
We recommend using natural corn gluten meal as a go-to organic fertilizer for all types of turf grass. At 9-0-0, it is a good organic fertilizer going into the growing season. This will give your lawn the push it needs to grow. Because natural corn gluten has organic sources of nitrogen, it will not burn the lawn. Nutrients are released as moisture becomes available over a longer period of time.  Where natural corn gluten really shines, however, is in its natural herbicidal tendencies. It will not only create a layer to prevent crabgrass seeds from rooting, it will in fact prevent ANY seeds from growing! So do not overseed in Spring if you will be applying corn gluten meal as fertilizer in Spring. Overseed in Fall instead. That's the optimal time to overseed anyways. If you are really concerned about crabgrass, we recommend to use the maximum application recommendation found in the label for best results. This means that a 40 lbs. bag of natural corn gluten meal, if applied at a rate of 20 lbs per 1,000 square feet, will only cover 2,000 square feet.  A bag of corn gluten in 2019 will set you back upwards of $45. This is definitely not a cheap alternative to the toxic chemicals available at the local big box store. But this by far is the best pet friendly and child friendly alternative for health conscious people like yourself. Have we mentioned you must water immediately after laying it down? Yes you do have to water right away because birds love eating it. Water also activates the corn gluten meal and breaks it down even further. Corn gluten meal also smells like cereals if you've ever opened a fresh bag. Be aware though that corn gluten meal can rot and decompose if stored improperly. Unless you want your lawn to smell like rotten eggs, we suggest to only use fresh corn gluten meals. A single application will provide up to 4 months of protection from any seeds. Generally, we only recommend using corn gluten meal once a year. You do not need to use it repeatedly if your soil composition is healthy for turf growth. As your lawn becomes thicker and healthier, you can lessen your application volume up to the point where you no longer need it.

CONTROL CRABGRASS SEEDS FROM GERMINATING

Bagged Mowing in Austin
If you did not get the chance to read your first goal in time, then this is where you will begin your organic lawn care plan. Your second goal is to control the existing crabgrass. Crabgrass seeds germination can be controlled by mowing high and by bagging all the clippings whenever you mow. No, you will not collect all the seeds with your mower, but you will collect a bunch of them. This will control some of the crabgrass seeds from getting in contact with the soil; thereby, minimizing seed germination. Mowing as high as possible also helps in controlling seeds from germinating. See, taller grass blades lessen lawn heat stress by retaining moisture in the soil. Moisture in the soil means that the soil is cooler than the ambient temperature. Since crabgrass seeds germinate when it's hot, you are lessening germination by keeping the soil cool. Lawns with taller grass blades also provide shade that lessens direct sunlight contact to the crabgrass seeds. This in turn will further lessen seed germination. 


REMOVAL AND OVERSEEDING

Grass Seeds Austin
Established crabgrass needs to be pulled. It is, in fact, that simple. There is no other way around it. The trick here is to remove the most established ones first everytime you mow. In the fall, overseed immediately. Do not even worry about how much seeds you lay, just lay it all in and water to help the lawn thicken up. This will prepare you for the upcoming season. Crabgrass will die after the first frost anyways, so you can just come in prepared and do better next season.

If you are interested in our organic lawn care program, contact us right away. We can help you.
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HTTPS: One of the very first fully encrypted lawn care website in the world is 50klawn.com

6/17/2019

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50klawn.com: fully https encrypted since May 21, 2017
50klawn.com: fully https encrypted since May 21, 2017

We are one of the very first lawn care and landscaping website to fully encrypt in the world and one of the very first and probably still the only (now in 2023) to offer online ordering for lawn and landscaping services in Austin, Texas.
​
Discover unparalleled convenience with our one-of-a-kind landscaping services, where you can effortlessly transform your outdoor space without lifting a finger. As the premier online landscaping materials installer in Austin, we offer an extensive selection of mulch, gravel, limestone, slabs, blocks, decomposed granite, concrete edging, pavers, and much more to create your dream oasis.

No matter where you are in the world, even if you're relaxing on a sun-soaked beach in Jamaica, sipping a refreshing martini, our team of experts will ensure a seamless experience from start to finish. With just a few clicks, you can purchase high-quality landscaping materials, schedule delivery to your doorstep, and arrange professional installation tailored to your unique vision.
​
Embrace the future of landscaping with our innovative, hassle-free approach, and let us turn your outdoor space into a stunning paradise.

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Beautiful Lawn: Organic Fertilizers, Actively Aerated Compost Tea Treatments, and Mulched Grass Clippings

6/10/2019

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Our approach to lawn care and plant care has continued to improve through the years. We now use a combination of organic fertilizers, beneficial microbes, and natural nutrient sources to encourage maximum grass and plant growth. This takes advantage of nature's natural nutrient cycle and recycle.  No use of harmful chemicals. No synthetics. 100% natural and organic.



Organic Fertilizers

Organically maintained lawn
Organic fertilizers contain slow-release organic sources of nitrogen among other natural mineral sources. This means that nutrients become available as moisture is available to prevent grass and plant burning. Because organic fertilizers are made of organic compounds, they add organic matter back into the soil. Thus, making the soil nutrient rich and denser. Our practice is to only apply organic fertilizers after a soil fertility test. Soil fertility testing will confirm the amount of bioavailable nutrients in the soil to prevent fertilizer overuse.
Among all key primary nutrients found in all fertilizers, Phosphorus is of a main concern for the environment. Phosphorus is a mobile nutrient which can leach and hurt aquatic resources. Grass in general does not need a lot of phosphorus to propagate. This is the reason why when soil phosphorus content is low, the organic fertilizers we use have very low phosphorus content. And when soil phosphorus content is sufficient, we use phosphorus-free organic fertilizers to promote clean water in rivers, lakes, bays, and wetlands.  Our practice has always been to use products and create services that work with nature, not against it, and for all our clients to only pay for the services they actually need and to not take advantage of that trust.

NUTRIENT CONTENT:
Nitrogen
Phosphorus/Phosphate (AS NEEDED)
Calcium
Iron

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Actively Aerated Compost Tea Treatments

Actively Aerated Compost Tea Application AACT
Actively Aerated Compost Tea (AACT) in general is a liquefied biological amendment made by maneuvering beneficial organisms from a highly active organic pile into an aerated water solution with various food sources.  Our specific AACT treatment has been professionally brewed from only the highest quality, pathogen-free, weed-free, pet friendly and bacteria-dominant organic compost, all-natural organic earthworm castings, fish hydrolysate, brown algae, soghum grass, sugar cane (NOT from genetically engineered), and highly aerobic, chlorine-free water. AACT helps accelerate organic matter decomposition like thatch and leaves, improves soil's aggregation to increase water-holding capacity, and reduce soil compaction by adding beneficial microbes for both grass and plants. It contains 12 bioavailable essential nutrients grass and plants need for optimum growth.  The advantage of the tea is that specialized recipes can be developed and fine-tuned to target specific lawn conditions and plant needs. Careful application of AACT can speed up the process of balancing the soil biology. The challenge, however, is achieving the proper mix. This requires a lot of time and testing because there is no way to ensure that one had brewed the proper amount and types of immobile and mobile bacterial populations, protozoas, rotifers, fungal hyphaes, and nematodes other than to test each and every batch, analyze under a microscope, and monitor the results. The amount of beneficial organisms found in AACT makes it particularly favorable for lawns and trees.


NUTRIENT CONTENT:
Nitrogen
Phosphorus/Phosphate
Calcium
Iron
Soluble Potash
Magnesium
Sulfur
Copper
Manganese
Molybdenum
Sodium
Zinc

Mulching Grass Clippings

Sheep on grass
Grass clippings are essential to the nutrient cycle and recycling process. When animals graze, some grass clippings are almost always destined to be left behind, decompose, and be converted back to nutrients. This is the reason why when we mechanically graze (mow) the lawn, we almost always recommend mulching of grass clippings. It is not only more affordable to mulch clippings than to bag them, it is better for the environment. Grass clippings have many nutrients and provide a significant portion of the lawn fertilization needs. This is on top of it being an additional organic food source for beneficial microbes.
NUTRIENT CONTENT:
Nitrogen
Potassium
Phosphorus/Phosphate

Boron
Copper
Iron
Chloride
Manganese
Molybdenum
Zinc

If you ever need help with your lawn care and plant care needs in Austin, please do not hesitate to contact us. We are very eager to help you.
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Organic Soil Management: Busting Myths with Real World Results.

5/25/2019

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UPDATED 04/01/2023:

We have traveled the world to select only the very best methods of taking care of our lawns and plants in Austin, Texas. We aim to fully explain our organic soil management. What we do, and how we do it.

At the core of our organic soil management is the recognition of the vital role that soil microorganisms play in the health and vitality of lawns and plants. Recent studies have shown that soil microbes are critical for soil fertility, nutrient cycling, and carbon sequestration. By promoting healthy microbial activity, we can improve soil structure, nutrient availability, and water-holding capacity, resulting in healthier plants with better root development and increased drought resistance.

Our approach involves building healthy soil by providing a balanced and diverse array of organic matter to the soil. This includes compost, worm castings, and other forms of organic matter that are rich in the nutrients that plants need. We also use cover crops, crop rotation, and other practices that promote biodiversity and soil health. By fostering the growth of soil microorganisms, we can create a self-sustaining ecosystem that produces healthier and more resilient plants over the long term.

In addition to promoting soil health, our approach also seeks to minimize environmental impacts. Synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, and pesticides can all have negative impacts on soil health, water quality, and wildlife. Our organic methods reduce the need for these harmful chemicals, promoting a healthier and more sustainable environment for all.

Overall, our organic soil management approach is based on the latest scientific research and proven practices from around the world. By working with nature and promoting healthy soil biology, we can create healthy lawns and plants that are better able to resist disease, drought, and other stresses. We are proud to offer these natural and sustainable solutions to our clients in Austin, Texas, and look forward to continuing to innovate and improve our methods based on the latest scientific knowledge.

"Dirt" in photo: Soil devoid of life.

Our organic soil management focuses in the natural nutrient cycling provided by nature for lawns and plants. By identifying the natural cycle first, we run against the grain industry convention of using synthetic chemicals and harmful pollutants, such as synthetic fertilizers (elevated nitrates and phospates), herbicides, insecticides, and pesticides (heavy metals), to counteract highly specific lawn and plant health conditions. We believe a holistic approach in taking care of lawns and plants is and has always been the best approach. We highlight our use of natural and organic methods to achieve desirable results. Our unique approach to lawn and plant care has been proven to improve soil water retention, increase the breakdown of organic layers (thatch) and leaves (yes, fallen leaves!), increase nutrient availability to plants, suppress diseases, and increase the natural aeration capability of the lawn.


Chemical Analysis

Measuring the pH level is typically where a chemical analysis starts and historically ends. However, as science progressed, we eventually added the three primary nutrients known to encourage grass and plant growth: Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorus (N, K, and P). This is crucial in determining the baseline of available nutrients and making accurate adjustments in the field. Then, secondary plant nutrients were added, such as Calcium, Magnesium, and Sulfur. Most professionals will now say that there are between 40-44 essential grass and plant nutrients.

For large projects, it is typical to contract a trusted laboratory to measure all essential nutrients and Cation Exchange Capacities (CEC) and soluble salt contents. However, for most residential applications, knowing the pH, primary, and secondary nutrient levels is sufficient to make informed decisions.

Laboratory Soil Test
Laboratory Soil Test
Compost Tea Under 400x Magnification, Showing Fungal Hyphae (long strand)
Compost Tea Under 400x Magnification, Showing Fungal Hyphae (long strand)

Microbial Analysis

When selecting an organic matter amendment strategy, it is essential to analyze immobile and mobile bacterial levels, fungi, and beneficial predators like protozoa and nematodes population, in addition to the commonly used testing of available primary nutrient levels in soil. For lawns, a nutrient cycling system that is largely bacterial-dominated is needed to function optimally, while for plants, fungal-dominated soils are required. Microbial analysis provides an additional tool to create a holistic picture of the soil composition.

Mycorrhizal fungi are microbial organisms that form narrow threads in compost and attach themselves to root structures. These organisms consume exudates from plant roots and store the nutrients as food and moisture for plants and nematode predators. The waste from the nematodes also becomes food for the plants, completing this natural nutrient cycle.


Bacteria also play a crucial role in plant nutrition by immobilizing nutrients in the rhizosphere. These microbes decompose organic matter and ingest root exudates, preventing them from leaching out of the soil. These valuable nutrients are tied up in the bacteria until they are eventually released in the ammonium (NH4+) waste of protozoa predators for use by the plant.



ORGANIC SOIL MANAGEMENT RESULTS

Note: All photos are unedited real world photos.

Organic Lawn Care Repair Using Only Compost Tea on native St. Augustine grass

Day 0


Note: All photos are unedited real world photos.

​DAY 15

DAY 43

These were the last photos of this property. Unfortunately, our client had to move. We would have loved to continue taking photos of the continuous progress we made.


Shrubs and Hedges

Note: All photos are unedited real world photos.
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The Ultimate Lawn and Landscaping Guide to Property Managers for the Austin Area

3/1/2018

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This is the ultimate lawn and landscaping guide for making smart and intelligent property management choices in Austin, Texas.

Austin Home Open House

We have helped a lot of property managers in Austin, Texas make the right choices for their property needs. With our years of industry experience, this guide will help you shine! You will not find this anywhere else. We compiled the very best ways to save you money without cutting corners. "Work smarter, not harder," a wiseman once said. This will be updated every time we find a smart and intelligent way to guide the discerning property manager in the Austin area.

Roof and Siding Clearance

Clearance! Clearance! And more clearance! Overgrown trees can sometimes break, snap, and fall which can damage a house's roof, siding, and windows, and even hurt people. Letting trees grow without adequate maintenance will not save a few hundred dollars. Eventually the trees fail and the owner ends up spending a few thousands more on repairing the damages the overgrown trees have caused. Then, the property manager gets in trouble for neglecting to remind of obvious issues.

Fallen tree in north Austin
Fallen Tree in Austin

Afterall, who else would the property owner and tenant blame? It is you, the property manager. This problem can be significantly lessen by making sure to remind the owner of the need for yearly pruning. Prune back trees, shrubs, and hedges away from the house's siding, windows, and roof line, no matter how low or high. Pruning will create clearance for natural movements during inclement weather and lessen preventable repairs. It also makes maintenance around the property easier as crews are able to move around more freely. For taller trees, make sure to have the crossed branches, dead branches, and foliage trimmed to lessen the chances of the trunk breaking or debris from falling. This tip will save you a lot of headache sometime down the road and is a smart and intelligent property management choice on any property you may have in and around the Austin area.

Do Not Fight Nature

Patchy lawn in south Austin
This backyard does not have an irrigation system. The lawn to the right hand side naturally propagates, while the lawn to the left hand side had receded due to shade.
Gravel pathway in south Austin
Using lighter colored gravel will give a cleaner look while at the same time improve the desirability of the property at a fraction of the price of getting rid of the shade and installing new sods. This specific project only cost $500 installed.

A good rule of thumb is to let nature guide your landscape. Sure, a lush and green lawn with plenty of beautiful flowering plants is ideal. But what to do if you took over a property with an already half-dead lawn, and the owner does not want to spend a lot of money? There is a balance to be made here. The property you are handling will not be successful on the market if nobody wants it. This happens all too often. A property manager typically has two quick workarounds. The easiest workaround to properties with a half-dead and receding lawn is to discount the property, reduce fees and subsequent yearly revenues. This may not give the optimum results a property manager wants to have. The expensive workaround is to fight back and reclaim the lawn. Not that the lawn can not be reclaimed by transplanting new grass, but that doing so can cost thousands of dollars more than when you just let it go. Eventually one learns to become more creative with what to do with the dead space. This is the third workaround we want to offer. The smarter and intelligent property management choice is to tackle this problem not with reduced prices, but to sell on and increase value. By replacing the dead and patchy lawn areas with an appropriately size rock or gravel, we can create a focal point for a family area. Smaller diameter rock or gravel is ideal for flat backyards as they can easily be compacted. It is also very comfortable to walk on. For areas with steeper slopes, and you will find more of these in west and north Austin areas, use larger rocks or boulders to slow down the velocity of water. This will lessen soil movement and erosion.

If rain water flows a certain direction, do not obstruct it, but rather work around it and go with the flow. While larger rocks and boulders can help with erosion, they can be very difficult to walk on. You can lay flagstones to create pathways when you need the slope to be functional. On areas where literally nothing grows, you can typically skip on laying weed fabric before laying the stones to save you money on installation. Since nothing grows there even with bare soil, you do not have to worry about weeding in the future. For areas with patches, lay some fabric or cardboard boxes to keep unwanted vegetation in check. In our experience, we have seen tenants bring in trampolines, children's playgrounds complete with slides and swings, and at times picnic tables upon moving in. A clean backyard with a large functional space, therefore, can add a lot of value and is a smart and intelligent property management choice.

Know Your Lawn

Knowing whether or not your property's lawn has a sprinkler system is crucial to a property manager's overall strategy. Make sure to fertilize the lawn with organic fertilizers and apply a treatment of actively aerated compost tea at least once in every month of May, July, September, and November for a lusher, greener lawn if and only if you already have an in-ground sprinkler system or somebody is hand watering frequently. Sprinklers and hand watering help keep the lawn moist and lessen the chances of it from receding. A thick healthy lawn will also prevent weeds from taking in the first place and eventually germinating. Lawns that are well-watered benefit the most from optimal nutrient and beneficial bacterial levels. Maintaining the lawn is a smart and intelligent choice as a property manager because the key and very important factor for lawn propagation, which is watering, is already present.

Well-maintained lawn in north Austin
Lawns with sprinkler systems will benefit the most from regular fertilization because water is very important to soil health and in keeping aerobic conditions.
Natural lawn in south Austin
Lawns without a sprinkler system generally do not achieve the same level of grass germination and uniformity as those found in irrigated lawns even when fertilized regularly.

If ever your property's lawn does NOT have a sprinkler system or nobody is able to hand water it completely, then let nature do what nature does. Lawns in this specific category will most often have unwanted vegetation, or what we typically call "weeds". And it can be very hard to achieve the results of those found in lawns with a sprinkler system. So unless somebody plans to hand water weekly or the owner plans to install a sprinkler system, we do not recommend organic fertilization and actively aerated compost tea treatment at all. Not that they will not help the lawn because they actually will improve nutrient and beneficial microbial levels, but because the lawn is already self sufficient as it currently stands, why bother? The vast majority of lawns that are being hand watered regularly or have a sprinkler system will recede and eventually die without irrigation. Yours won't die.

It is already self-sufficient. But should your prospective tenants change their minds and decide to care for having the best irrigation-free green lawn, then go ahead with adding fertilization and actively aerated compost tea treatment as part of the yearly maintenance. Otherwise, if getting the best irrigation-free green lawn is not the priority, then the smart and intelligent choice is to simply leave the lawn as it is and just get it mowed more frequently. Sometimes, just having a professionally mowed lawn is enough to make prospective tenants happy. This is us speaking from the heart and what property managers have told us through the years, not some marketing quackery.

Got Leaves?

North Austin rental property with deciduous trees.
Rental property in north Austin with deciduous trees.

Knowing when the property has deciduous trees or evergreen is a crucial part of being a property manager. A sure telltale sign of deciduous trees is that they shed leaves. Look at the lawn and plant beds and look for leaves, if you got leaves, then know to avoid using mulch or larger rocks like river rocks as ground covers. Leaves will stick to mulch, making them harder to rake, blow clean, and vacuum. On larger rocks , on the other hand, leaves tend to get stuck in crevices and spaces in between the rocks that make them not only harder to rake, blow clean, and vacuum, but also close to impossible to be cleaned thoroughly. Both cases will increase the labor involved when it is time for a cleanup.

Yes, you may be able to get away with not cleaning up immediately. But with time, leaves will eventually accumulate beyond manageable levels. Tenants will then complain of bugs, spiders, cockroaches, and even snakes, then move out, and then you are now stuck with a vacant property and a huge mess. Maybe this may not happen to you, and the property simply goes on sale. Still, cleanup is highly recommended if not required for a successful turnaround. The smarter and intelligent approach to properties with deciduous trees is to leave the plant bed with either bare soil or use finer, smaller rocks or gravel as ground cover. Both approach will make it so much easier to rake, blow clean, and vacuum; thereby significantly lowering the cost of cleanup. Finer and smaller rock and gravel gets compacted over time and do not get suctioned or blown away very easily. Leaves, on the contrary, do get blown away easily and vacuumed quickly. And any service provider that has been in the industry for quite sometime will be quick to identify the price difference between the two. If you do not see a significant price decrease, text, call, chat, or email us. We can help you.

Wild Vegetation is Your Friend

In the course of your career as a property manager, you will find some tenants who absolutely love gardening and can create the plant beds of your dreams. But you will also quickly realize that the vast majority of tenants simply do not care at all. And since nobody can control what tenants will and will not do when they move in, why not just let the wild vegetation grow on the plant beds, and let nature run its course? Unless there is an HOA master plant list on your deed restricted community, letting wild vegetation grow is a huge blessing. For one, wild vegetation does not need human intervention to grow. You do not need to fertilize the plants. There is also no need for cultivation, weeding, and watering. You have eliminated 99% of the work of maintaining the plant beds. No need for selective pruning, for shaping, for making sure the foliage is straight, round, or square. As you can see in the photo, the wild vegetation in Austin does not look all that shabby. We have flowering plants like Texas lantana, bluebonnet, spiderwort, betony, snakewort, violets, wooly stemodia, and many more.

Wild Vegetation in South Austin
Wild Vegetation in South Austin

Isn't making wild vegetation a friend, rather than an enemy, the smarter and intelligent solution to the common problem? When the time comes that the property becomes vacant, all you need to tell your service provider is to cut it back with a lawn mower or a weed eater. The vegetation will simply grow back the following year. This lessens the cost of maintenance and upkeep while retaining a comparable curb appeal. The BEST of both worlds. What we have not mentioned yet is what wild vegetation does to the local ecosystem. Wild vegetation adds food and shelter to butterflies, honeybees, earthworms, microbes, insects, and birds. You will also notice wild vegetation is being used at the Austin parks around downtown Austin. And if wild vegetation is good enough for our city parks, why would it not be good for the property you manage?

Native and Adapted Plants Give Diversity

Picture

If wild vegetation is too wild for your taste, then stick with plants that are native and have adapted locally. The city of Austin has a booklet as a resource guide for a quick refresher. For a more intensive list, the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower center is very hard to beat. The local industry typically conducts conventions and local training at their Southwest Austin location. Native and adapted plants are chosen because they are hardy to our local climate, are not invasive, and fits in the local flora and fauna. Using native and adapted plants gives you more control in adding plant variety to the plant beds. Similar to wild vegetation, these plants do not need a lot of human intervention. While all native and adapted plants do need to be fertilized when being planted and again 3 months later, very little fertilization is needed once they are established. Some may need to be pruned back once a year, and others may not need pruning at all. It just depends on the native and adapted plants you pick. If you need guidance, chat with us 24/7. We can help.

We hope to have helped you become a wiser and more verse property manager. Make sure to bookmark this page as this compilation will be updated for the years to come. Visit us often for more tips and tricks around your lawn and landscaping. Should you ever need our help, just let us know. We are here for you.

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Exploring Dethatching Service for Older Lawns in Austin

2/14/2018

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Now updated to the most current science in 2023!
A Lawn Dethached in South Austin

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What do we mean by Dethatching?

Dethatching, as the name implies, refers to the process of removing portions of the thatch layer from a lawn. Excessive amount of thatch layer can stunt root growth from reaching deeper into the soil. This limits the roots' ability to access water reserves in drought and immovable nutrients.

There are three tried-and-true methods for effective dethatching: Core Aeration, Top Dressing, and Power Raking. First is Core Aeration. While Core Aeration does not remove a lot of thatch directly, it encourages a longer microbial reaction by creating a direct contact between the soil and thatch. It also reduces soil compaction that stimulate root development. Top Dressing, the second method, introduces microorganisms that break down the thatch layer by adding organic matter. These microbes naturally eats away the thatch layer through the natural decomposition process. Lastly and the most invasive procedure of all, power raking. Power raking mechanically removes the thatch layer, which is then removed through either bagged mowing or raking.

A comprehensive lawn dethatching process takes time. It is not uncommon to see all three dethatching methods performed at the same time. Power raking will be followed by bagged mowing, before Core Aeration, and then top dressing.

What is Thatch?

Thatch, primarily composed of decomposing lawn debris, serves as a natural protection for lawns against moisture fluctuations and soil compaction. It serves as a kind of mulch. On football fields and sports turf applications, thatch increases lawn resiliency, improves player footing, and lessens impact. However, having a thatch layer of more than 1" thick indicates that microorganisms in the lawn are having a hard time decomposing the lawn debris, which can harbor disease causing insects and pests through unregulated soil moisture. Fungi can breed under the thatch layer in the Winter, and attack the lawn in Spring to form Yellow Patch, Summer Patch, or Ring Spot.


Debunking the Myth

Contrary to popular belief, mulching the lawn or otherwise leaving grass clippings or leaves on the lawn will NOT increase the thatch layer. Grass clippings and leaves are made up mostly of water and nutrients that can easily be absorbed by the lawn. According to University of Minnesota Extension, "grass clippings decompose rapidly and contribute very little to thatch accumulation." When it comes to leaving leaves on the lawn, Virginia Tech and Virginia State University says, "Mulching the leaves had no undesirable effects on turf quality or color, growth, thatch accumulation, soil pH, weed populations, or disease pressure. While the leaves did not prove to be a substitute for appropriate N fertilization practices, the general assessment was that mulching was overall very positive and economical."

Thatch Build-up

Excessive thatch build up happens when the lawn produces more organic debris much faster than can be decomposed. According to Penn State University, "parts of grass plants that are the most resistant to decay — stem nodes, crowns, fibers of vascular tissues, and roots — make up the bulk of thatch." Mowing infrequently will contribute to thatch build up. This is because a significant amount of stem tissue gets cut off. As time passes by mowing one overgrown lawn after another, thatch layer naturally thickens as more and more stem nodes, crowns, fibers, and roots collect underneath the lawn. This is the reason why dethatching exists.



Thatch Management

Thatch Management calls for regular lawn maintenance, more frequent and regular weekly mowing, even when you think the grass has not grown yet. This limits the length of the grass to be cut and lowers the amount of organic matters resistant to decay. Mowing higher is also preferred to keep the grass lush and thick. Aerate and Top Dress regularly in Spring to reduce the need for synthetic fertilizer. Avoid the use of high yielding Nitrogen synthetic fertilizer because synthetic nitrates simply kill too many soil microbial life. To get a greener look earlier into the growing season, add Iron instead of Nitrogen. Do not deep water lawns that are compacted. When the root system is restricted, there is no added benefit to watering deeply. Excessive moisture in the soil can simply become a paradise for fungal growth that may eat away the lawns' root system. As the lawn thickens and recovers, you may gradually increase watering intervals and increase the amount of water at every watering time. Reducing the watering time may be needed for lawns with slopes and hills to lessen water runoff and top soil erosion.

THE UPDATE

New to 2023, the use of Actively Aerated Compost Tea in Thatch Management

Incorporating actively aerated compost tea into your lawn care regimen offers numerous benefits. Compost tea is a nutrient-rich liquid produced by steeping compost in aerated water. Applying compost tea to dethatched lawns can:

1. Enhance microbial activity, promoting faster thatch decomposition.
2.Improve the soil's nutrient content, supporting healthier root growth and overall lawn vitality.
3. Suppress disease-causing pathogens and pests, reducing the need for chemical treatments.
4. Increase the lawn's drought tolerance and ability to absorb nutrients and water, leading to more efficient use of resources.

By combining effective dethatching methods with the application of actively aerated compost tea, you can maintain a lush, healthy lawn that can better withstand environmental stressors and requires less reliance on synthetic fertilizers and chemical treatments.


We hope that our little blog post helps you in understanding more about dethatching and thatch. Should you need help with your lawn, please do not hesitate to contact us. We are very eager to help.
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Why Lawn Care Providers and Landscapers in Austin Even Have Rain Delays?

2/14/2018

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Front Yard While It is Raining
Photo of a front yard with elevated bed in Austin, Texas.

Ah, the dreaded rain delay! Lawn Care Providers and Landscapers in Austin have a love-hate relationship with rain. Too little rain causes drought. Too frequent rain creates disruption to virtually all services. This is something the entire industry has to work with. But why would services be disrupted just because of rain in the first place?

1. Safety

It is simply slippery when wet. Slip and fall accidents can break bones, dislocate shoulders, hips, fingers, and more. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) says slip and fall accounts for approximately 25% of all injury claims per year, 17% of disabling injuries, and 15% of accidental deaths. This is on top of the increase likelihood of getting involved in vehicle collisions. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation (DoT) statistics, 22% or 1.2 million crashes every year are weather related. Over a 10-year period, 73% is said to be attributable to wet pavement and 43% is connected to driving when it's rainingrain fall. Working under the rain simply elevates a lot of unnecessary safety issues and problems for lawn care providers and landscapers in Austin. Problems that, in all honesty, are avoidable.

2. Labor Inefficiency

Because lawn care providers and landscapers in Austin have to be more cautious of their surroundings, they have to work much slower than when it is dry. This increases the cost of labor way above the budgeted time. "One key example", based to a whitepaper published by Intergraph "is [homeowners] will very often demand the same completion date, despite the added workscope. This may require overtime, second shift work, rework, additional crafts, and many other impacts to the original plan and estimate. This increase in man-hours, constraints, and other resources would impact the cost and schedule." The same DoT report, moreover, shows travel inefficiency increases by as much as 50% when it rains. Since a huge amount of lawn care and landscaping jobs pricing are connected one way or another to labor cost, pricing has to be increased significantly. Nobody wants that to do that.

3. Decreased Work Quality

Decreased Work Quality has to be learned the hard way, through experience. Men in boots carrying heavy equipment while walking dozens of times, going back and forth from the lawn and to the truck, in wet weather condition will create mud. No matter how slow and careful a lawn care provider or landscaper go on any job, a heavy object on a lawn will create a mess. Then, mud and clippings will eventually find its way to any pavement around the house, the driveway or side street, and the lawn portions of the will be damaged and compacted. After the damage has been done, the only ways to fix these issues are to pressure wash the entire pavement and to aerate and re-level the lawn, both of which are labor intensive jobs. Not to mention, the unnecessary hassle this brings to the job site and all stakeholders.

4. Soil Compaction

Soil can easily be compacted when it is wet. This matters more to Lawn Care Providers than Landscapers. We focus in making sure the lawn germinates. But under wet conditions, according to Iowa State University, the "best choice [one] can make is to stay away from the field--avoid traffic on wet soil to reduce soil compaction". Should your soil be compacted, learn how to alleviate compaction through core aeration.

Conclusion

For these reasons, lawn care providers and landscapers in Austin tend to re-schedule almost all appointments when it rains. It is simply the right thing to do. It is right to treat our employees with care. And it is right to treat our client's properties with utmost respect.

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Ultimate Lawn and Landscape Guide For Your New Home in South Austin

2/1/2018

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This is the ultimate new homeowner's guide about the techniques for making smart lawn and landscape choices. Now updated for 2023!

You Just Moved to Your South Austin Home! Now, What Do You Need To Do?

First, welcome to South Austin! Congratulations on your new home! Our ultimate lawn and landscape guide for your new home in South Austin will help you identify and correct issues that may not be easily noticeable without expert guidance. From bumpy lawns to lawns with massive drainage issues, we have seen all the cheap tricks contractors may throw at you. Work quality of new lawns in South Austin have significantly gone down when compared to those built in the mid 2000's. That is why vigilance on your part is imperative. Hopefully, you have found the issues first and haggled to get them corrected. If you did not notice the underlying issues the first time, then our goal is to guide you to everything you need to know from day 1. Remember: planning, maintenance, and prevention will always be cheaper in the long run.


1. Lawn and Landscape Inspection Checklist

Bumpy Lawn South Austin

Check for a Bumpy Lawn

We noticed bumpy lawns are now rampant all over new developments in South Austin. Bumpy lawns are a trip hazard and must be corrected immediately. It felt as though the sods were laid when the ground was still soaking wet. To check for a bumpy lawn, walk around the lawn when it is dry. Assuming the lawn is draining properly, your feet should be level and relatively flat. If you notice significant bumps, one correction to increase flatness is to re-roll the entire lawn with an appropriately weighted roller or top dressing low lying areas with high quality compost. We found that using a combination of both will significantly lessen the bumpiness of the lawn.


Expert Tip

When rolling the lawn, avoid rolling when wet. You risk damaging the lawn through compaction. And when top dressing, limit thickness to about .25". You may also mix your top dressing material with sand or decomposed granite. The granules in sand or decomposed granite helps level the lawn. We are aware that estimating how thick is .25" is hard to estimate on the job, so simply make sure the grass blades are still visible. As long as you see grass blades on top of the top dressing, you will not smother the lawn. Afterall, your lawn is alive! The lawn will do whatever it takes to get the much needed sunlight.


Wet Grass in South Austin

Inspect the Lawn for Drainage Problems

Has your lawn always been too muddy to walk on? Is it always wet? Does it have a swampy smell? If all these are true, you may have a drainage issue. The builder wants the water to flow away from the house's foundation. Sometimes, however, the water runoff is set to an extreme. A drainage problem is commonly found near the fence line, around edges of the property line, near the backyard gate, or along the A/C. Drainage problems may cause your lawn to recede as it gets smothered with water, exacerbated by anaerobic condition. There are quite a number of options to correct this issue and lessen excessive water runoff. Your lawn and landscape professional may recommend gutters, explore the creation of a rain garden beds on low lying areas, creation of physical drain like a french drain, or re-grading the lawn to lessen the steep runoff, then maybe using rocks to slow down or reroute excessive water runoff, among others. Your first call to action, however, is to identify the issue as soon as possible before the need for extensive re-sodding. Afterall, this is your new home!

Expert Tip

Use larger river rocks of about 1" or more strategically to slow down water runoff. We use river rocks along gutter down spouts, pathways, or garden beds to control the velocity of water flow to lessen erosion. Make sure to watch how the entire environment react on these specific locations when it rains. Observe water flow both before installation and afterwards. There is no other substitute for observing mother nature. Even the civil engineers do this, why wouldn't you?


A Flower Bed in South Austin

The Plant Beds Do NOT Have Weed Barriers. What should you do?

Quickly check what is underneath the existing landscaped plant beds. Is it just bare soil? Do you see a black plastic, a white fabric, or a cardboard box? Most likely than not, your plant bed only has bare soil underneath the mulch. This means that sooner or later your plant beds will be riddled with unwanted weeds.You need some kind of a natural barrier from the ground to suppress and prevent weeds. The key, therefore, is prevention. Prevention will save you a lot of time and money.

To prevent unwanted weed germination in plant beds without weed barriers, you can employ several natural strategies that minimize the need for chemical herbicides and promote a healthier garden ecosystem:

1. Use cover crops and native plants: Planting cover crops or native plants can help suppress weeds by competing for resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients. These plants can form a dense canopy that shades out weeds, making it difficult for them to germinate and grow. Native plants are particularly advantageous, as they are well-adapted to local conditions, and can provide habitat for beneficial insects and wildlife.

2. Apply a thicker layer of mulch: Using a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, leaves, or grass clippings, can help block sunlight and prevent weed seeds from germinating. Mulch also helps retain soil moisture and improve soil health, making it more challenging for weeds to establish. Maintain a consistent mulch layer of about 2-4 inches, refreshing it as needed to keep weed growth at bay.

3. Hand-pulling and hoeing: Regularly hand-pulling weeds or using a hoe to remove them can help keep weed populations under control. By removing weeds before they have a chance to set seed, you can reduce the number of weed seeds in the soil and prevent future infestations. Be sure to remove the entire root system to prevent regrowth.

4. Solarization: If you have a particularly problematic weed infestation, you can use solarization to kill weeds and their seeds. This involves covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. The heat trapped under the plastic will kill weeds, seeds, and some soil-borne pests and diseases, giving you a clean slate to start your planting.

5. Plant densely: Plant your desired plants close together to create a dense canopy that shades out weeds and competes for resources. This can help limit the space available for weeds to grow and can result in a more productive and visually appealing garden.

6. Cultivate soil regularly: Turning over the soil with a garden fork or tiller can help disrupt the weed seed bank by burying seeds too deep for germination or exposing them to sunlight, which can reduce their viability. However, take care not to over-cultivate, as this can damage soil structure and promote erosion.

7. Implement a no-till approach: In some cases, adopting a no-till gardening method can help reduce weed growth by preserving soil structure and limiting the exposure of buried weed seeds to the surface, where they can germinate.

By combining these natural weed suppression techniques, you can create a more sustainable, low-maintenance garden that minimizes the need for chemical weed control and promotes a healthier, more balanced ecosystem.

Expert Tip

Avoid using weed and feed products or any kind of synthetic herbicides. These products have been shown to have adverse effects to our environment, the fish population, birds and bees. Use the strategies we listed above.


Fallen Leaves

Inspect for Mature Deciduous Trees

Walk around the lawn to check for deciduous trees like Live Oaks, Maple, and Ash that are all over Austin. Are you going to need to remove leaves in Fall and Winter? This will help you and your lawn care professional plan for the materials needed for your landscape and plant beds. We recommend to simply mulch these leaves back to the lawn in winter. The result may not be aesthetically pleasing, but these mulched leaves will eventually be reabsorbed by the lawn come Spring. If leaves are not getting broken down, spray the area with actively aerated compost tea. The live microbes will help breakdown the mulch. This is much hundreds of dollars cheaper than removing the leaves. The last is to get your provider to come by every couple of weeks to spend time bagging the leaves. Avoid leaving the leaves on the lawn for a prolonged period. This will cause an almost 100% increase in dandelions and crabgrass infestation, according to Michigan State University.

Expert Tip

Ask your lawn care provider to spray Actively Aerated Compost Tea treatments regularly. This is penny on the dollar when compared to a full leaf cleanup. Doing it this way, you'll be saving money and at the same time enriching your lawn's soil with organic matter.

RELATED: Would you like to know about The Easiest Way to Remove Leaves?


2. Maintenance Schedule Checklist

Lawn Mowing

Recurring Lawn Mowing Begins

Lawn mowing is a very important part of your overall lawn maintenance program. We strongly recommend weekly lawn mowing to ensure you get the best quality cut. If you are looking to save a little money, then bi-weekly mowing can sometimes work. It is, however, very hard to get a great looking lawn on a bi-weekly interval. To get the best, weekly interval is the way to go.

There is a lot that goes on behind mowing the lawn. First, ensure the mower blades are very sharp. When using lawn care professionals, one way to know if the blades are dull is by looking at the cut immediately after mowing. A grass blade must be crisp and should not have rugged brown edges. Rugged edge is a telltale sign of dull blades. And dull blades will increase the chances of infection and lengthen the grass' recovery time. Imagine having multiple wounds instead of just one.

When mowing the lawn, make sure to cut appropriately to the season. This means not cutting too short in the summer or too high in the winter. Cutting too short when it is hot will cause heat stress and the lawn to recede. Cutting too long in the winter will keep the lawn very moist in the cold and encourage disease causing fungus to take. Generally, do not cut more than a third of the grass during normal maintenance. This will lessen stress. Cut in different directions to lessen lawn rot and soil compaction. Doing this lessens missed areas and cuts the lawn very flat. This will give you the professionally manicured look everyone desires.

In general, lawn mowing is recommended at least once every week for best results during Spring, Summer, and Fall, and once every month during Winter. If going for a weekly interval is beyond the monthly budget, then going for once every 2 weeks in Spring, Summer, and Fall, and once every month and a half in the Winter will suffice.

Expert Tip

Bag clippings when weeds are present to lessen infestation. Do this as needed. Weed by hand as necessary. It is best to add organic matter, fertilize, aerate, and weed regularly during the season. You will notice when the lawn has thickened and fully recovered. From here on, you will simply be maintaining the lawn.

RELATED: Would you like to learn more about How to Properly Mow a Lawn?


Photo of a lawn recently aerated by a tube aerator in south Austin.

Core Aeration

Core aeration alleviates soil compaction. Compaction is more prevalent to older lawns than newer ones. A telltale sign your lawn has a compacted lawn is weak grass growth on localized areas. Typically, you will find these areas when people take regular shortcuts walking unto the lawn. Walking on the lawn is generally not bad for the lawn. But sometimes, new homeowners are not aware that walking on the lawn while the lawn is still moist or otherwise wet will eventually cause soil compaction on both new and older lawns. This is where core aeration kicks in. Core Aeration makes it easier for air, water and movable nutrients to flow much freely throughout the soil. This in turn gives the grass roots the opportunity to grow deeper into the soil, making the lawn hardy to sudden drought. Generally, aeration is recommended at least once a year. For areas experiencing more traffic, we recommend twice a year, once in Spring and another in Fall. Only aerate the lawn during the growth phases of the season. Be careful when aerating lawns with a sprinkler system as sprinkler heads can easily be damaged by the aerator.


Expert Tip

Aerate and Top dress at the same time. Top Dressing uses a soil mix which adds organic matter into the soil and can also be used to build up soil flora. When combined with core aeration, the organic matter can be placed deeper into the soil profile to manipulate the soil structure. It also lessens traffic stress and alleviates soil compaction. Sometimes, when the soil's pH level is just a little off, top dressing may be enough to make minor adjustments.


RELATED: Would you like to explore more about The Benefits of Lawn Core Aeration?


Dry Soil

Lawn Fertilization

Lawns are recommended do a soil test first before fertilizing the lawn. A trusted provider typically provides FREE soil fertility tests to avoid over fertilization. If they do not provide this service, you will be overpaying for services you may not need. We generally recommend to fertilize once in every month of March, May, July, September, and November AS NEEDED. Make sure to organic granular slow release fertilizers to avoid burning the lawn. This will eliminate 99% of the problems with synthetic fertilizers. Organic fertilization with corn gluten meal can also prevent the spread of weeds and make the lawn very healthy. Remember, we recommend to perform a soil test first in order to have a baseline of the amount of N-K-P the lawn needs, and its pH level. Note that fertilization will not correct the lawn's pH level. What it will do, however, is to add nutrients back into the lawn. Organic fertilizers, unlike synthetic salt-based fertilizers, will add nutrients AND organic matter back into the lawn, which is essential to increase nematode and beneficial microorganism population. If the pH level needs to be corrected, you may use lime or aluminum sulfate to raise or lower the pH level back to the ideal range of around 7.0. Adding organic compost, peat moss, and other naturally found materials will increase organic matter in the soil and also slightly adjust the pH level. When fertilizing, we recommend adding a professionally brewed actively aerated compost tea to help break down thatch, organic matter like leaves, and increase the lawn's bacterial and beneficial microbe count to help in the natural nutrient cycle.

Expert Tip

Use organic slow release fertilizers and naturally found soil amendments to improve the lawn's soil and nutrient composition.

RELATED: Would you like to learn more about Our Full Organic and Natural Fertilization Program?


Mulched Bed Around a Mature Tree in Austin

Mulch Installation and Mulch Turning

Mulch adds a layer of protection from drought and sudden freeze, but limit mulch thickness to 4", as adding too much mulch will smother the roots. If your plant beds have old mulch, make sure to turn the mulch at least once a year. This helps against soil compaction and revitalizes the look of the mulch for the season. Turning old mulch also helps in making sure air gets into the bottom of the mulch and aid in decomposition of organic matter, like leaves. Turning mulch can be a great time to weed the beds as well. Light weeding will still be recommended at least once a year for optimal results, even with a weed fabric.

Expert Tip

Not all mulches are created equal. Make sure to inspect the mulch color, cut quality, and cleanliness. It is not unusual to find mulch that has trash mixed in, varying cut quality, and with sub-par pigments.

RELATED: Would you like to understand more about your Groundcover Options?


Shaped Hedge in Austin

Perennial Tree and Shrub Trimming and Pruning.

Perennial trees and shrubs in general are recommended to be pruned in the winter when they are dormant. This allows trees and srubs to use all the nutrients available to grow in Spring. Selective pruning can also be utilized at this time of the year to prevent cross branches from becoming a safety hazard or damaging sidings or roof. Aside from these, trimming and pruning can add shape and exquisite look to your landscape especially during the holidays.


Expert Tip

Avoid trimming too deep into the foliage. Some plants like Box Shrubs or Rosemaries won't recover on once the damage has been done. The best alternative is to do selective pruning first, letting the plant recover and grow foliage inside, before finally shaping to the desired size and shape. With plants as with people, slow is fast.


Get Your FREE Organic Best Practices Lawn Care Service Guide



We hope you find our blog helpful. Should you need help with your lawn and landscape or should you want us to expand this guide, please do not hesitate to contact us. We are eager to help.
4 Comments

THE ULTIMATE FREE ORGANIC BEST PRACTICES LAWN CARE SERVICE GUIDE

1/23/2018

5 Comments

 
We compiled the ultimate organic lawn care service guide to help you with your lawn and landscaping. This guide is yours absolutely FREE. It is up to date to the most recent science concerning sustainable lawn and landscape management to support healthy plants, soil, and clean environment. This guide has been updated for 2019.

THE ULTIMATE FREE ORGANIC  BEST PRACTICES LAWN CARE SERVICE GUIDE

GENERAL GUIDE:
Water infrequently.
Check soil nutrients regularly.
Fertilize accordingly.
Sharpen blades everytime you mow.


January:
This is the best time to do landscaping work!


February:
  1. Turn existing mulch. If laying new mulch, lay cardboard boxes first to suppress weeds. This is a practice we borrowed from permaculture.
  2. Aerate the lawn with core aeration & lay organic top dressing.

March: (turn on sprinklers!)
  1. Spread organic corn gluten fertilizer to your lawn and plant beds to suppress unwanted vegetation, and then water immediately!
  2. Spring cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.

April:
  1. Use organic tree fertilizer for shrubs & trees; spray Actively Aerated Compost Tea (AACT) Treatment on the foliage for disease suppression.
  2. Mowing: set mower height to at least 3”, and always mulch clippings. If you have weeds popping up, bag clippings to suppress it.

May: Ask us for your FREE SOIL TEST before spreading organic lawn fertilizers & spraying with AACT. Why? You may not need fertilization this month! Do not over-fertilize. Movable nutrients from fertilizers of any kind will simply leach into our natural rivers and lakes.

June: Deep watering begins & set mowing height to 4”. You will increase your chances of getting weeds if you mow any lower.

July:
  1. Recheck soil nutrients with our FREE SOIL TEST first before spreading lawn fertilizer & respraying with AACT. Remember, the dates are GUIDES only. Your lawn's total immediately available nutrients is what we are looking for.
  2. Fertilize shrubs & trees as needed, & respray with AACT. You can check the foliage for any signs of malnutrition.

August: Summer cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.

September:
  1. OVERSEED & spread organic lawn fertilizer & spray with AACT. Make sure to check the soil nutrient levels first before fertilizing.
  2. Return to normal watering levels & set mowing height back to at least 3”.

October: Fall cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.

November: Reapply organic lawn fertilizer & AACT treatment as needed. If it's a hot winter, apply corn gluten fertilizer to prevent seeds from rooting.

December:
  1. Winter cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.
Blow off & turn off sprinklers if freeze warning is in effect.

SOME TECHNICAL INFORMATION FOR FREE ORGANIC BEST PRACTICES GUIDE
a. Spread organic corn gluten fertilizer at a rate of up to 20 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. for coverage against weeds; water immediately. b. Spread GP organic lawn fertilizer at a rate of 12.8 lbs./1,000 sq. ft.; 25.6 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. if overseeding. c. Use organic tree fertilizer in a 1” x 12” hole spaced 2’ apart along drip line at a rate of 5 lbs./trunk-diameter-inch; for shrubs, 5 lbs./100 sq.ft. or 1 lb./shrub root area. d. AACT: bacteria dominant for lawn; fungal dominant for trees/shrubs. Contact us for FREE GUIDANCE.



RELATED:

How to Get Rid of Crabgrass Organically


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Top 3 Pro Tips for a Natural Green Lawn in Spring by Lawn Care Specialists in Southpark Meadows

1/18/2018

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Experienced gardeners know that just right before Spring is the right time to prepare for the growing season. Much like growing crops, lawns in Southpark Meadows require the same amount of preparation and care. It is not hard, but it simply takes time. Because it is vital that we get it right at the beginning of the year, we have compiled from our lawn care specialists the top 3 pro tips for a natural green lawn in Spring.



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Top Pro Tip #1: Aerate the Lawn

If getting a natural green lawn in Spring is your goal, then an aeration service as soon as the grass starts growing must be at the top of your list. This paves the way to expanding the root zone. Aeration shatters the soil to encourage root penetration, water infiltration, and air exploration. According to Penn State University, College of Agricultural Sciences, "Mechanical aeration provides an excellent, and probably the only, means of correcting or alleviating soil compaction which may be quite serious on many lawn areas." The idea of free movement within the soil naturally results in what we call an aerobic condition. On the contrary, blocked soil pores due to compaction which restricts the natural flow of water and air, similar to what we see in swamps, floodplains, and wetlands, is called an anaerobic condition. Both conditions have their role in nature. What we want to have, however, is a deeper root zone for our lawn. The deeper the root growth is, the healthier our lawn will be. As roots burrow more deeply into the soil, they gain more access to water reserves and immovable nutrients that the lawn needs. This promotes more germination of grass which in turn creates a lusher, thicker, and a naturally greener lawn.



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Top Pro Tip #2: Mow The Leaves and All Plant Clippings Back Into The Lawn

Mowing the leaves, grass clippings, and brush clippings back into the soil will help in getting a natural green lawn in Spring. All these "unwanted" trash is really just misunderstood organic matter. By adding all the organic plant matter back to the lawn, we are creating soils with a high organic matter content that encourages biological activity. As biological creatures in the soil tunnels through, we are naturally preventing anaerobic conditions. This is similar to aeration, only that it is done as nature intended. The lawn then will have better chances of naturally recovering from temporary soil compaction. This practice also lessens the amount of organic trash we throw away at landfills; thereby, lessening our carbon footprint in Southpark Meadows, and saving you money.



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Top Pro Tip #3: Fix Bare Lawn Spots

Because it rains almost every other week in Southpark Meadows during this time of the year, Spring is arguably the best time to fix all the bare spots on your lawn. Of course, you may do this anytime in the year with professional help. But if we are talking about the easiest time to do this in Southpark Meadows, it is right now, during Spring. Fixing the bare spots by laying seeds or sods and reconditioning the soil becomes very easy because you no longer have to worry about the summer heat. During Summer, lawn care specialists need to observe if seeds are getting too dry or if sods are showing signs of heat stress. This kind of baby sitting is eliminated by the more frequent rain and generally favorable weather conditions in Spring. Best of all, rain water from thunderstorms naturally adds a fresh amount of Nitrogen back into the soil that helps with germination and rooting. Unlike synthetic fertilizers,nitrogen and other nutrients from rain water will not burn the lawn because they are slowly broken down by microorganisms naturally found in the soil.



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The Cheapest, Easiest, and Best Way to Get Rid of Leaves

11/4/2017

2 Comments

 

The cheapest, easiest, and arguably the best way to remove leaves is to simply blow the leaves towards your lawn, and mulch them with a mower. You may sometimes need to go over a few times. Nonetheless, there is no need to bag them because leaves are organic matter with nutrients that the lawn can eventually reabsorb. Running them over with a mower have been proven to improve turf quality year after year according to a Michigan State University study.

Our experience with mulching leaves back to the lawn supports the theory of producing a much greener lawn even during the winter months. We noticed no negative effects in mulching a lot of leaves on a single plot. In fact, the more we mulch the leaves, the greener the lawn became in the next growing season. Note that the leaves MUST be mulched. Blowing the leaves on one location and letting the leaves sit there will produce unwanted pests and molds. The same can be said when using leaves as mulch for plant beds. Leaves, just like any organic matter, has to be broken down and turned regularly in order to break down. Regular visits will give a similar effect, ensuring leaves don't simply stay undisturbed for a long period of time.

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Professional Pet Waste Removal in Austin, Texas

6/16/2017

9 Comments

 

Professional Pet Waste Removal in Austin, Texas


Have you ever thought about how much time and effort it actually takes to be a responsible pet parent? We own a small 1 year-old Shih Tzu, and he poops around 2 or 3 times a day. His diet is primarily kibble and canned dog food, but thinking of all the other pet owners, especially those with bigger dogs out there, it gets me thinking, "How do you go about cleaning after your pet?!" Some of you may have really big dogs, some may have medium dogs, others have small dogs or even cats: regardless of the size and kind of pet you have, all of us have one thing in common… WE DISLIKE CLEANING AFTER THEM!!! PERIOD!!! When you’re relaxing and maybe watching “the blacklist” or “the flash” on Netflix, or just chilling in your South Austin home, the last thing you want to do is to get up and clean up after your pet because the lawn guys are coming anytime today. It's a cringefest right there. You start pointing fingers as to who's turn it is to clean up after your pet. No need to worry, we got your back with our professional pet waste removal service in Austin, Texas. But really, whether you get our services or not, we do hope everyone out there cleans up after their pets, one way or another.


Pet Waste?

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Who's Cleaning Up?

Pet Poop Fact #1

According to Austin, Tx poop expert guide, scoopthepoop.org, pet waste, especially poop, can contain e-coli, roundworm, giardia, and other germs that can make people extremely sick. Some of these disease-causing organisms remain infectious in soil for weeks or years. To make matters worst, pet poop can contaminate lakes, rivers, and our entire water supply. Pet poop is also toxic to plants and will cause a bald spot on your lawn if left alone for weeks.


Why Clean After Your Pet? Short answer... "BECAUSE IT IS AGAINST THE LAW"!


Here is a list of ordinances in Austin, Texas for pet owners:


AUSTIN

§ 3-4-6 DEFECATION BY A DOG OR CAT. "An owner or handler shall promptly remove and sanitarily dispose of feces left on public or private property by a dog or cat being handled by the person, other than property owned by the owner or handler of the dog or cat.”


Fine: Up to $500.


§ 15-6-112 - ACCUMULATIONS AND DEPOSIT OF WASTE PROHIBITED. (A) A person commits an offense if the person deposits, causes to be deposited, or permits to accumulate any dry or wet solid waste upon any public or private premises within the city in such a manner as to emit noxious or offensive odors or to become unsanitary or injurious to public health or safety.


§ 3-2-11 - ENCLOSURE REQUIRED. (A)(3) maintained in a sanitary condition that does not allow flies to breed or cause an odor offensive to an adjacent residence or business

Pet Poop Fact #2

# 250,000 Dogs in Austin create 150,000 pounds of dog poop per day, which is 55 million pounds of dog poop per year deposited in our city.


"BECAUSE DOG WASTE IS HARMFUL"


Aside from the fact that it is “EEEEEEEEWWWW” and it “SMELLS BAD”!
1. You won’t be able to hold your weekly barbecue parties
2. The yard will be unusable
3. It will be embarrassing to your guests
Your pet’s waste contains parasites, viruses, and various diseases that IS harmful to both people and other animals. As a precaution, it is advisable to maintain a clean and waste free environment. BE CLEAN, BE SAFE.
Your pet’s waste may attract unwanted guests, such as but not limited to: 1. Flies
2. Worms
3. Insects


Pet Poop Fact #3

Just one ounce of dog feces contains 23 million microorganisms of bacteria - nearly twice that of human waste.


"BECAUSE IT “WILL” DESTROY YOUR LAWN!"


Pet waste does not make a good fertilizer. Pet waste is toxic (as I said, it contains harmful microorganisms) and is harmful to your lawn, it causes burns on your grass and discoloring. Improperly scooping and disposing of your pet’s waste will damage your lawn and hopefully not but may be irreparable.


This may lead to bigger problems if you plan on landscaping your lawn or if you want to sell your home in the future.


Pet Poop Fact #4

Some of the common diseases that you, other people or other pets can get from pet waste:
•Whipworms
•Hookworms
•Roundworms
•Tapeworms
•Parvo
•Corona
•Giardiasis
•Salmonellosis
•Cryptosporidiosis
•Campylobacteriosis

As a pet owner should know how to clean up after your pet. Everyone in the family should know how to clean up after your pets. Maybe make it a part of your kid’s daily chores. As a way of giving a helping hand we offer daily pet waste cleaning services and/or with a small additional fee, after our mowing service.

Pet Poop Fact #5


It washes from land into our creeks and lakes and contaminates the water
- causes harmful algae and aquatic weeds to grow
- reduces oxygen in the water for fish and other animals
- makes recreational areas unsafe to enjoy



So what do you need to do to be a responsible Fur parent?
1. If possible, make sure to train your pet in doing their business in one spot only, for your convenience.
2. Have a waste disposal bag always available in an accessible place (near their “potty area”).
3. Check your lawn or waste area daily, for your pet’s waste.
4. Teach your children to clean up after your pet
5. Make sure to always wash and clean your hands after taking care of your pet’s waste.
6. ALWAYS DISPOE OF THE WASTE “PROPERLY”.

Pet Poop Fact #6

Your pet’s waste can cause water pollution. When it rains, pet waste left on trails, sidewalks and grassy areas can wash into the nearest waterway. Even if you can't see signs of water near you, the feces wash into storm drains and then travel to your neighborhood creek or lake untreated.


As much as we want to do it maybe once a week or once a month, it is really not possible. Since your pet, a dog for example, may poop more than once a day. So make sure to clean after your pet on a daily basis and that should be fine.

Pet Poop Fact #7


Roundworm eggs last for years, because of this dog waste should not go in compost that will end up as vegetable garden fertilizers. Hookworms are a concern in sandy areas where people are on the beach or barefoot in parks and playgrounds since these worms will migrate under the skin, causing scars

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