What is Buffalo Grass?
Buffalo grass as the new lawn alternative, Buchloe dactyloides, is a perennial grass native to North America. In Texas, this grass is found from the south central region to the High Plains region. It requires full sun but can withstand partial shade. It is a warm season grass that becomes dormant in cold temperatures, which may turn brown from mid-fall through mid-spring. Buffalo grass is fine-textured, curly, vibrant, and dark green in color. You can grow buffalo grass lawns by seeding (burs) or laying sod.
Buffalo grass is dioecious. It has both male and female plants. Male plants contain stamens while female plants contain pistils. These male and female plants produce seeds. Male (Staminate) plants are white-colored, have a flag type, one-sided spike pollen head while female (Pistillate) plants are often green-colored, and have short spikes. Buffalo being a dioecious grass mean it has both male and female plants. Usually found in patches. Poor germination of seeds or burs may affect the production of buffalo grass.
Is Buffalo Grass A Good Grass For Austin Lawns?
Buffalo grass is a common alternative to other types of grass that are commonly used in Austin, namely St. Augustine, Zoysia, Ryegrass, and Bermuda grass. Good news for Austin homeowners who are looking for a type of grass that requires less irrigation. Buffalo grass could be the perfect one for you as it is drought tolerant and can tolerate extreme temperatures.
Know more about Bufflograss below:
Strengths: Heat and drought tolerant, very cold tolerant, low maintenance, invulnerable to diseases.
Weaknesses: Intolerant of excessive foot traffic, not recommended in high rainfall areas, difficult to establish from seed, intolerant of sandy soils, prone to weed invasion during dormant season
Buffalo Grass Installation
Buffalo grass can be installed anytime of the year but ideally in Spring. Buffalo sod needs to be installed right after it is delivered as it dries out fast especially in hot weather. If the weather is hot on the day of the installation, lay the turf in sections and water each section. It takes about two weeks for the buffalo grass to establish. Ensure proper watering to avoid root rot, diseases, and weeds. According to Colorado State University Extension, proper irrigation is crucial during the root formation period.
It can be difficult to establish buffalo grass from seed as it has often low germination rate. Treated seed germination however is much higher. That is why it is important to treat the seed and should be planted in dry conditions. Ideally during spring and summer. It takes 7 to 10 days for the seed to germinate. Buffalo seeding rate is 1-3 pounds per 1,000 square feet at a depth of half an inch or less. Make sure that the soil to be used is rock and debris free.
Buffalo Grass Maintenance
Buffalo grass is low growing, usually reaches about 12 inches long but drapes over which makes the turf appear short. It requires little maintenance. There is no need for frequent mowing and watering as the grass simply needs a moderate amount of moisture. One inch of water per week is enough to maintain a healthy green buffalo grass turf. Buffalo grass can be mowed up to 3 inches high. Although, be mindful of the weeds that buffalo grass tends to get. Regular fertilization and hand weeding are key to this problem.
How to repair a damaged buffalo lawn?
As we have mentioned, one of the weaknesses of buffalo grass is that, it is intolerant of excessive foot traffic. Foot traffic by us, and even by our little furry friends may damage our buffalo lawn. Simply because it may cause soil compaction. Once the soil is compacted, it will affect the rate of water infiltration and drainage.
Core Aeration and Organic Fertilization! Core Aeration alleviates soil compaction which helps oxygen, water, and nutrients penetrate deeper into the ground. Fertilize every three months, and aerate once or twice a year. Consider re-levelling any lower areas after aerating to avoid lumps and an uneven lawn. An uneven lawn can be challenging to mow.
Buffalo lawns have the ability to resist weeds. But they sometimes grow in buffalo lawns typically in summer and winter.
Kill those nasty weeds by pulling them out by hand while they are still small because once they grow bigger and set seed, it becomes difficult to get rid of them. Control them while you still can as they can spread all over your lawn quickly. If you want to be extra cautious. you can fertilize your lawn using organic fertilizer once every three months.
Buffalo grass losing its beautiful color?
Buffalo grass turning brown in cold temperatures or due to poor maintenance is inevitable.
Proper lawn care maintenance! While buffalo lawns are low maintenance, do not take them for granted. It is important to ensure that you give your lawn the proper care it needs: Regular fertilization, mowing, and correct watering. Water your lawn daily for about 15 minutes per zone if you have irrigation or 30 minutes per area if watering by hand. Especially if it is very hot outside.
Please keep in mind that buffalo grass is only recommended for areas that are not used regularly. It will not grow in areas that are used heavily as it will lead to deterioration of the quality of buffalo grass.
Unlock the Full Potential of Your Lawn Organically: The Comprehensive Guide to Top Dressing Benefits
TOP DRESSING KEY BENEFITS
WHAT IS AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER?
Our organic fertilizer is composed of 85% organic matter. Organic matter decomposes and feeds the existing microbes. These microbes eventually die and release nutrients that are absorbed by grass and plant roots, which make the soil healthy enough to grow grass and other plants.
WHY USE ORGANIC FERTILIZER OVER SYNTHETIC FERTILIZER?
Synthetic fertilizer is very effective in getting quick results but actually does little to stimulate soil life, improve soil texture, composition, or improve long-term fertility. In fact, synthetic nitrates found in synthetic fertilizer are known to kill organic microbes found in soil. Moreover, synthetic fertilizers that are water soluble can very easily can overrun and reach our rivers, streams, and other natural waterways. Applying too much synthetic fertilizer is also known to burn lawn and plants. All of these issues are virtually eliminated or lessened when using an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer provides benefits to both plants and soil and generally won’t burn or damage plants. It stimulates beneficial soil microbes and improves the soil structure. This is a developing science on its own, but current understanding suggests that soil microbes play a key role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients at a rate that can be absorbed by plants. Because the fertilizer is derived organically, the secondary micronutrients which are normally absent in synthetic fertilizer are available. Organic fertilizer also typically has a lower NPK analysis (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) than synthetic fertilizer, but organic fertilizer feeds grass and plants for a much longer period of time. As a result, despite having a subtle impact on lawn and plants, we generally get a greener lawn and plants for a much longer period of time.
WHAT DOES AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER DO?
Organic fertilizer adds organic matter that feeds the soil and slowly releases nitrogen into the lawn as it grows. Nitrogen is one of the 40+ essential nutrients in grass and plant growth, development, and reproduction.
HOW DOES AERATION HELPS WITH ORGANIC FERTILIZATION?
Organic fertilizer goes hand in hand with aeration. Aeration makes it much easier for oxygen, water, and movable nutrients like nitrogen (N) to get into the soil and to be absorbed by the grass roots
WHAT ARE MOVABLE NUTRIENTS?
Movable or mobile nutrients are nitrogen (N) in the form of nitrate, phosphorus (P) in the form of phosphate, potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), chlorine (Cl), zinc (Zn), among others. Movable nutrients are important for plant growth and help in diagnosing plant nutrient deficiencies because a deficiency in any element can seriously inhibit plant development and show unique symptoms.
WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED APPLICATION INTERVALS FOR GRASS?
Organic fertilization is recommended to be applied 5 times a year for best results. However, it can be applied any time during the growing season. Each application feeds for up to 10 weeks. This will result to fertilizing less while your grass gets all the nutrients it needs. Make sure to test the soil first before fertilizing as over-fertilization can negatively impact our environment. Yes, even when using organic fertilizer, excessive movable nutrients can overrun and reach our lakes, rivers, and other natural waterways causing algae, mass fish deaths, increase water toxicity, among others.
WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED ORGANIC FERTILIZATION APPLICATION FOR TREES AND SHRUBS?
For trees and shrubs plants, we recommend to fertilize trees and shrubs twice a year, once in spring and another in fall in preparation for its growing season in summer. Although, it is best to test the soil first to determine if the trees and shrubs need a nutritional boost.
COULD ORGANIC FERTILIZER PREVENT WEEDS?
There are many kinds of organic fertilizers, but one kind of organic fertilizer that stands out is the natural corn gluten meal. Natural corn gluten meal can be used in organic fertilization and treatment. It is like a natural weed and feed. Corn gluten is a byproduct of the corn milling process. Corn gluten in itself does not prevent weed seeds to grow. However, it prevents weed seeds from forming roots after germination. It can work as a pre-emergent herbicide and is most effective when applied just before weed germination. Corn gluten has an NPK of 10-0-0, a natural nitrogen source that breaks down over time. It also smells good.
PREVENT CRABGRASS SEEDS FROM ROOTING
CONTROL CRABGRASS SEEDS FROM GERMINATING
REMOVAL AND OVERSEEDING
Established crabgrass needs to be pulled. It is, in fact, that simple. There is no other way around it. The trick here is to remove the most established ones first everytime you mow. In the fall, overseed immediately. Do not even worry about how much seeds you lay, just lay it all in and water to help the lawn thicken up. This will prepare you for the upcoming season. Crabgrass will die after the first frost anyways, so you can just come in prepared and do better next season.
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Beautiful Lawn: Organic Fertilizers, Actively Aerated Compost Tea Treatments, and Mulched Grass Clippings
Organic fertilizers contain slow-release organic sources of nitrogen among other natural mineral sources. This means that nutrients become available as moisture is available to prevent grass and plant burning. Because organic fertilizers are made of organic compounds, they add organic matter back into the soil. Thus, making the soil nutrient rich and denser. Our practice is to only apply organic fertilizers after a soil fertility test. Soil fertility testing will confirm the amount of bioavailable nutrients in the soil to prevent fertilizer overuse.
Phosphorus/Phosphate (AS NEEDED)
Actively Aerated Compost Tea Treatments
Mulching Grass Clippings
Grass clippings are essential to the nutrient cycle and recycling process. When animals graze, some grass clippings are almost always destined to be left behind, decompose, and be converted back to nutrients. This is the reason why when we mechanically graze (mow) the lawn, we almost always recommend mulching of grass clippings. It is not only more affordable to mulch clippings than to bag them, it is better for the environment. Grass clippings have many nutrients and provide a significant portion of the lawn fertilization needs. This is on top of it being an additional organic food source for beneficial microbes.
We have traveled the world to select only the very best methods of taking care of our lawns and plants in Austin, Texas. We aim to fully explain our organic soil management. What we do, and how we do it.
At the core of our organic soil management is the recognition of the vital role that soil microorganisms play in the health and vitality of lawns and plants. Recent studies have shown that soil microbes are critical for soil fertility, nutrient cycling, and carbon sequestration. By promoting healthy microbial activity, we can improve soil structure, nutrient availability, and water-holding capacity, resulting in healthier plants with better root development and increased drought resistance.
Our approach involves building healthy soil by providing a balanced and diverse array of organic matter to the soil. This includes compost, worm castings, and other forms of organic matter that are rich in the nutrients that plants need. We also use cover crops, crop rotation, and other practices that promote biodiversity and soil health. By fostering the growth of soil microorganisms, we can create a self-sustaining ecosystem that produces healthier and more resilient plants over the long term.
In addition to promoting soil health, our approach also seeks to minimize environmental impacts. Synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, and pesticides can all have negative impacts on soil health, water quality, and wildlife. Our organic methods reduce the need for these harmful chemicals, promoting a healthier and more sustainable environment for all.
Overall, our organic soil management approach is based on the latest scientific research and proven practices from around the world. By working with nature and promoting healthy soil biology, we can create healthy lawns and plants that are better able to resist disease, drought, and other stresses. We are proud to offer these natural and sustainable solutions to our clients in Austin, Texas, and look forward to continuing to innovate and improve our methods based on the latest scientific knowledge.
Our organic soil management focuses in the natural nutrient cycling provided by nature for lawns and plants. By identifying the natural cycle first, we run against the grain industry convention of using synthetic chemicals and harmful pollutants, such as synthetic fertilizers (elevated nitrates and phospates), herbicides, insecticides, and pesticides (heavy metals), to counteract highly specific lawn and plant health conditions. We believe a holistic approach in taking care of lawns and plants is and has always been the best approach. We highlight our use of natural and organic methods to achieve desirable results. Our unique approach to lawn and plant care has been proven to improve soil water retention, increase the breakdown of organic layers (thatch) and leaves (yes, fallen leaves!), increase nutrient availability to plants, suppress diseases, and increase the natural aeration capability of the lawn.
Measuring the pH level is typically where a chemical analysis starts and historically ends. However, as science progressed, we eventually added the three primary nutrients known to encourage grass and plant growth: Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorus (N, K, and P). This is crucial in determining the baseline of available nutrients and making accurate adjustments in the field. Then, secondary plant nutrients were added, such as Calcium, Magnesium, and Sulfur. Most professionals will now say that there are between 40-44 essential grass and plant nutrients.
For large projects, it is typical to contract a trusted laboratory to measure all essential nutrients and Cation Exchange Capacities (CEC) and soluble salt contents. However, for most residential applications, knowing the pH, primary, and secondary nutrient levels is sufficient to make informed decisions.
When selecting an organic matter amendment strategy, it is essential to analyze immobile and mobile bacterial levels, fungi, and beneficial predators like protozoa and nematodes population, in addition to the commonly used testing of available primary nutrient levels in soil. For lawns, a nutrient cycling system that is largely bacterial-dominated is needed to function optimally, while for plants, fungal-dominated soils are required. Microbial analysis provides an additional tool to create a holistic picture of the soil composition.
Mycorrhizal fungi are microbial organisms that form narrow threads in compost and attach themselves to root structures. These organisms consume exudates from plant roots and store the nutrients as food and moisture for plants and nematode predators. The waste from the nematodes also becomes food for the plants, completing this natural nutrient cycle.
Bacteria also play a crucial role in plant nutrition by immobilizing nutrients in the rhizosphere. These microbes decompose organic matter and ingest root exudates, preventing them from leaching out of the soil. These valuable nutrients are tied up in the bacteria until they are eventually released in the ammonium (NH4+) waste of protozoa predators for use by the plant.
ORGANIC SOIL MANAGEMENT RESULTS
Organic Lawn Care Repair Using Only Compost Tea on native St. Augustine grass
Shrubs and Hedges
This is the ultimate lawn and landscaping guide for making smart and intelligent property management choices in Austin, Texas.
We have helped a lot of property managers in Austin, Texas make the right choices for their property needs. With our years of industry experience, this guide will help you shine! You will not find this anywhere else. We compiled the very best ways to save you money without cutting corners. "Work smarter, not harder," a wiseman once said. This will be updated every time we find a smart and intelligent way to guide the discerning property manager in the Austin area.
Roof and Siding Clearance
Clearance! Clearance! And more clearance! Overgrown trees can sometimes break, snap, and fall which can damage a house's roof, siding, and windows, and even hurt people. Letting trees grow without adequate maintenance will not save a few hundred dollars. Eventually the trees fail and the owner ends up spending a few thousands more on repairing the damages the overgrown trees have caused. Then, the property manager gets in trouble for neglecting to remind of obvious issues.
Afterall, who else would the property owner and tenant blame? It is you, the property manager. This problem can be significantly lessen by making sure to remind the owner of the need for yearly pruning. Prune back trees, shrubs, and hedges away from the house's siding, windows, and roof line, no matter how low or high. Pruning will create clearance for natural movements during inclement weather and lessen preventable repairs. It also makes maintenance around the property easier as crews are able to move around more freely. For taller trees, make sure to have the crossed branches, dead branches, and foliage trimmed to lessen the chances of the trunk breaking or debris from falling. This tip will save you a lot of headache sometime down the road and is a smart and intelligent property management choice on any property you may have in and around the Austin area.
Do Not Fight Nature
A good rule of thumb is to let nature guide your landscape. Sure, a lush and green lawn with plenty of beautiful flowering plants is ideal. But what to do if you took over a property with an already half-dead lawn, and the owner does not want to spend a lot of money? There is a balance to be made here. The property you are handling will not be successful on the market if nobody wants it. This happens all too often. A property manager typically has two quick workarounds. The easiest workaround to properties with a half-dead and receding lawn is to discount the property, reduce fees and subsequent yearly revenues. This may not give the optimum results a property manager wants to have. The expensive workaround is to fight back and reclaim the lawn. Not that the lawn can not be reclaimed by transplanting new grass, but that doing so can cost thousands of dollars more than when you just let it go. Eventually one learns to become more creative with what to do with the dead space. This is the third workaround we want to offer. The smarter and intelligent property management choice is to tackle this problem not with reduced prices, but to sell on and increase value. By replacing the dead and patchy lawn areas with an appropriately size rock or gravel, we can create a focal point for a family area. Smaller diameter rock or gravel is ideal for flat backyards as they can easily be compacted. It is also very comfortable to walk on. For areas with steeper slopes, and you will find more of these in west and north Austin areas, use larger rocks or boulders to slow down the velocity of water. This will lessen soil movement and erosion.
If rain water flows a certain direction, do not obstruct it, but rather work around it and go with the flow. While larger rocks and boulders can help with erosion, they can be very difficult to walk on. You can lay flagstones to create pathways when you need the slope to be functional. On areas where literally nothing grows, you can typically skip on laying weed fabric before laying the stones to save you money on installation. Since nothing grows there even with bare soil, you do not have to worry about weeding in the future. For areas with patches, lay some fabric or cardboard boxes to keep unwanted vegetation in check. In our experience, we have seen tenants bring in trampolines, children's playgrounds complete with slides and swings, and at times picnic tables upon moving in. A clean backyard with a large functional space, therefore, can add a lot of value and is a smart and intelligent property management choice.
Know Your Lawn
Knowing whether or not your property's lawn has a sprinkler system is crucial to a property manager's overall strategy. Make sure to fertilize the lawn with organic fertilizers and apply a treatment of actively aerated compost tea at least once in every month of May, July, September, and November for a lusher, greener lawn if and only if you already have an in-ground sprinkler system or somebody is hand watering frequently. Sprinklers and hand watering help keep the lawn moist and lessen the chances of it from receding. A thick healthy lawn will also prevent weeds from taking in the first place and eventually germinating. Lawns that are well-watered benefit the most from optimal nutrient and beneficial bacterial levels. Maintaining the lawn is a smart and intelligent choice as a property manager because the key and very important factor for lawn propagation, which is watering, is already present.
If ever your property's lawn does NOT have a sprinkler system or nobody is able to hand water it completely, then let nature do what nature does. Lawns in this specific category will most often have unwanted vegetation, or what we typically call "weeds". And it can be very hard to achieve the results of those found in lawns with a sprinkler system. So unless somebody plans to hand water weekly or the owner plans to install a sprinkler system, we do not recommend organic fertilization and actively aerated compost tea treatment at all. Not that they will not help the lawn because they actually will improve nutrient and beneficial microbial levels, but because the lawn is already self sufficient as it currently stands, why bother? The vast majority of lawns that are being hand watered regularly or have a sprinkler system will recede and eventually die without irrigation. Yours won't die.
It is already self-sufficient. But should your prospective tenants change their minds and decide to care for having the best irrigation-free green lawn, then go ahead with adding fertilization and actively aerated compost tea treatment as part of the yearly maintenance. Otherwise, if getting the best irrigation-free green lawn is not the priority, then the smart and intelligent choice is to simply leave the lawn as it is and just get it mowed more frequently. Sometimes, just having a professionally mowed lawn is enough to make prospective tenants happy. This is us speaking from the heart and what property managers have told us through the years, not some marketing quackery.
Knowing when the property has deciduous trees or evergreen is a crucial part of being a property manager. A sure telltale sign of deciduous trees is that they shed leaves. Look at the lawn and plant beds and look for leaves, if you got leaves, then know to avoid using mulch or larger rocks like river rocks as ground covers. Leaves will stick to mulch, making them harder to rake, blow clean, and vacuum. On larger rocks , on the other hand, leaves tend to get stuck in crevices and spaces in between the rocks that make them not only harder to rake, blow clean, and vacuum, but also close to impossible to be cleaned thoroughly. Both cases will increase the labor involved when it is time for a cleanup.
Yes, you may be able to get away with not cleaning up immediately. But with time, leaves will eventually accumulate beyond manageable levels. Tenants will then complain of bugs, spiders, cockroaches, and even snakes, then move out, and then you are now stuck with a vacant property and a huge mess. Maybe this may not happen to you, and the property simply goes on sale. Still, cleanup is highly recommended if not required for a successful turnaround. The smarter and intelligent approach to properties with deciduous trees is to leave the plant bed with either bare soil or use finer, smaller rocks or gravel as ground cover. Both approach will make it so much easier to rake, blow clean, and vacuum; thereby significantly lowering the cost of cleanup. Finer and smaller rock and gravel gets compacted over time and do not get suctioned or blown away very easily. Leaves, on the contrary, do get blown away easily and vacuumed quickly. And any service provider that has been in the industry for quite sometime will be quick to identify the price difference between the two. If you do not see a significant price decrease, text, call, chat, or email us. We can help you.
Wild Vegetation is Your Friend
In the course of your career as a property manager, you will find some tenants who absolutely love gardening and can create the plant beds of your dreams. But you will also quickly realize that the vast majority of tenants simply do not care at all. And since nobody can control what tenants will and will not do when they move in, why not just let the wild vegetation grow on the plant beds, and let nature run its course? Unless there is an HOA master plant list on your deed restricted community, letting wild vegetation grow is a huge blessing. For one, wild vegetation does not need human intervention to grow. You do not need to fertilize the plants. There is also no need for cultivation, weeding, and watering. You have eliminated 99% of the work of maintaining the plant beds. No need for selective pruning, for shaping, for making sure the foliage is straight, round, or square. As you can see in the photo, the wild vegetation in Austin does not look all that shabby. We have flowering plants like Texas lantana, bluebonnet, spiderwort, betony, snakewort, violets, wooly stemodia, and many more.
Isn't making wild vegetation a friend, rather than an enemy, the smarter and intelligent solution to the common problem? When the time comes that the property becomes vacant, all you need to tell your service provider is to cut it back with a lawn mower or a weed eater. The vegetation will simply grow back the following year. This lessens the cost of maintenance and upkeep while retaining a comparable curb appeal. The BEST of both worlds. What we have not mentioned yet is what wild vegetation does to the local ecosystem. Wild vegetation adds food and shelter to butterflies, honeybees, earthworms, microbes, insects, and birds. You will also notice wild vegetation is being used at the Austin parks around downtown Austin. And if wild vegetation is good enough for our city parks, why would it not be good for the property you manage?
Native and Adapted Plants Give Diversity
If wild vegetation is too wild for your taste, then stick with plants that are native and have adapted locally. The city of Austin has a booklet as a resource guide for a quick refresher. For a more intensive list, the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower center is very hard to beat. The local industry typically conducts conventions and local training at their Southwest Austin location. Native and adapted plants are chosen because they are hardy to our local climate, are not invasive, and fits in the local flora and fauna. Using native and adapted plants gives you more control in adding plant variety to the plant beds. Similar to wild vegetation, these plants do not need a lot of human intervention. While all native and adapted plants do need to be fertilized when being planted and again 3 months later, very little fertilization is needed once they are established. Some may need to be pruned back once a year, and others may not need pruning at all. It just depends on the native and adapted plants you pick. If you need guidance, chat with us 24/7. We can help.
We hope to have helped you become a wiser and more verse property manager. Make sure to bookmark this page as this compilation will be updated for the years to come. Visit us often for more tips and tricks around your lawn and landscaping. Should you ever need our help, just let us know. We are here for you.
What do we mean by Dethatching?
Dethatching, as the name implies, refers to the process of removing portions of the thatch layer from a lawn. Excessive amount of thatch layer can stunt root growth from reaching deeper into the soil. This limits the roots' ability to access water reserves in drought and immovable nutrients.
What is Thatch?Thatch, primarily composed of decomposing lawn debris, serves as a natural protection for lawns against moisture fluctuations and soil compaction. It serves as a kind of mulch. On football fields and sports turf applications, thatch increases lawn resiliency, improves player footing, and lessens impact. However, having a thatch layer of more than 1" thick indicates that microorganisms in the lawn are having a hard time decomposing the lawn debris, which can harbor disease causing insects and pests through unregulated soil moisture. Fungi can breed under the thatch layer in the Winter, and attack the lawn in Spring to form Yellow Patch, Summer Patch, or Ring Spot.
Debunking the MythContrary to popular belief, mulching the lawn or otherwise leaving grass clippings or leaves on the lawn will NOT increase the thatch layer. Grass clippings and leaves are made up mostly of water and nutrients that can easily be absorbed by the lawn. According to University of Minnesota Extension, "grass clippings decompose rapidly and contribute very little to thatch accumulation." When it comes to leaving leaves on the lawn, Virginia Tech and Virginia State University says, "Mulching the leaves had no undesirable effects on turf quality or color, growth, thatch accumulation, soil pH, weed populations, or disease pressure. While the leaves did not prove to be a substitute for appropriate N fertilization practices, the general assessment was that mulching was overall very positive and economical."
Thatch Build-upExcessive thatch build up happens when the lawn produces more organic debris much faster than can be decomposed. According to Penn State University, "parts of grass plants that are the most resistant to decay — stem nodes, crowns, fibers of vascular tissues, and roots — make up the bulk of thatch." Mowing infrequently will contribute to thatch build up. This is because a significant amount of stem tissue gets cut off. As time passes by mowing one overgrown lawn after another, thatch layer naturally thickens as more and more stem nodes, crowns, fibers, and roots collect underneath the lawn. This is the reason why dethatching exists.
Thatch ManagementThatch Management calls for regular lawn maintenance, more frequent and regular weekly mowing, even when you think the grass has not grown yet. This limits the length of the grass to be cut and lowers the amount of organic matters resistant to decay. Mowing higher is also preferred to keep the grass lush and thick. Aerate and Top Dress regularly in Spring to reduce the need for synthetic fertilizer. Avoid the use of high yielding Nitrogen synthetic fertilizer because synthetic nitrates simply kill too many soil microbial life. To get a greener look earlier into the growing season, add Iron instead of Nitrogen. Do not deep water lawns that are compacted. When the root system is restricted, there is no added benefit to watering deeply. Excessive moisture in the soil can simply become a paradise for fungal growth that may eat away the lawns' root system. As the lawn thickens and recovers, you may gradually increase watering intervals and increase the amount of water at every watering time. Reducing the watering time may be needed for lawns with slopes and hills to lessen water runoff and top soil erosion.
New to 2023, the use of Actively Aerated Compost Tea in Thatch Management
Incorporating actively aerated compost tea into your lawn care regimen offers numerous benefits. Compost tea is a nutrient-rich liquid produced by steeping compost in aerated water. Applying compost tea to dethatched lawns can:
1. Enhance microbial activity, promoting faster thatch decomposition.
2.Improve the soil's nutrient content, supporting healthier root growth and overall lawn vitality.
3. Suppress disease-causing pathogens and pests, reducing the need for chemical treatments.
4. Increase the lawn's drought tolerance and ability to absorb nutrients and water, leading to more efficient use of resources.
By combining effective dethatching methods with the application of actively aerated compost tea, you can maintain a lush, healthy lawn that can better withstand environmental stressors and requires less reliance on synthetic fertilizers and chemical treatments.
Ah, the dreaded rain delay! Lawn Care Providers and Landscapers in Austin have a love-hate relationship with rain. Too little rain causes drought. Too frequent rain creates disruption to virtually all services. This is something the entire industry has to work with. But why would services be disrupted just because of rain in the first place?
1. SafetyIt is simply slippery when wet. Slip and fall accidents can break bones, dislocate shoulders, hips, fingers, and more. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) says slip and fall accounts for approximately 25% of all injury claims per year, 17% of disabling injuries, and 15% of accidental deaths. This is on top of the increase likelihood of getting involved in vehicle collisions. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation (DoT) statistics, 22% or 1.2 million crashes every year are weather related. Over a 10-year period, 73% is said to be attributable to wet pavement and 43% is connected to driving when it's rainingrain fall. Working under the rain simply elevates a lot of unnecessary safety issues and problems for lawn care providers and landscapers in Austin. Problems that, in all honesty, are avoidable.
2. Labor InefficiencyBecause lawn care providers and landscapers in Austin have to be more cautious of their surroundings, they have to work much slower than when it is dry. This increases the cost of labor way above the budgeted time. "One key example", based to a whitepaper published by Intergraph "is [homeowners] will very often demand the same completion date, despite the added workscope. This may require overtime, second shift work, rework, additional crafts, and many other impacts to the original plan and estimate. This increase in man-hours, constraints, and other resources would impact the cost and schedule." The same DoT report, moreover, shows travel inefficiency increases by as much as 50% when it rains. Since a huge amount of lawn care and landscaping jobs pricing are connected one way or another to labor cost, pricing has to be increased significantly. Nobody wants that to do that.
3. Decreased Work QualityDecreased Work Quality has to be learned the hard way, through experience. Men in boots carrying heavy equipment while walking dozens of times, going back and forth from the lawn and to the truck, in wet weather condition will create mud. No matter how slow and careful a lawn care provider or landscaper go on any job, a heavy object on a lawn will create a mess. Then, mud and clippings will eventually find its way to any pavement around the house, the driveway or side street, and the lawn portions of the will be damaged and compacted. After the damage has been done, the only ways to fix these issues are to pressure wash the entire pavement and to aerate and re-level the lawn, both of which are labor intensive jobs. Not to mention, the unnecessary hassle this brings to the job site and all stakeholders.
4. Soil CompactionSoil can easily be compacted when it is wet. This matters more to Lawn Care Providers than Landscapers. We focus in making sure the lawn germinates. But under wet conditions, according to Iowa State University, the "best choice [one] can make is to stay away from the field--avoid traffic on wet soil to reduce soil compaction". Should your soil be compacted, learn how to alleviate compaction through core aeration.
ConclusionFor these reasons, lawn care providers and landscapers in Austin tend to re-schedule almost all appointments when it rains. It is simply the right thing to do. It is right to treat our employees with care. And it is right to treat our client's properties with utmost respect.
This is the ultimate new homeowner's guide about the techniques for making smart lawn and landscape choices. Now updated for 2023!
You Just Moved to Your South Austin Home! Now, What Do You Need To Do?
First, welcome to South Austin! Congratulations on your new home! Our ultimate lawn and landscape guide for your new home in South Austin will help you identify and correct issues that may not be easily noticeable without expert guidance. From bumpy lawns to lawns with massive drainage issues, we have seen all the cheap tricks contractors may throw at you. Work quality of new lawns in South Austin have significantly gone down when compared to those built in the mid 2000's. That is why vigilance on your part is imperative. Hopefully, you have found the issues first and haggled to get them corrected. If you did not notice the underlying issues the first time, then our goal is to guide you to everything you need to know from day 1. Remember: planning, maintenance, and prevention will always be cheaper in the long run.
1. Lawn and Landscape Inspection Checklist
Check for a Bumpy Lawn
We noticed bumpy lawns are now rampant all over new developments in South Austin. Bumpy lawns are a trip hazard and must be corrected immediately. It felt as though the sods were laid when the ground was still soaking wet. To check for a bumpy lawn, walk around the lawn when it is dry. Assuming the lawn is draining properly, your feet should be level and relatively flat. If you notice significant bumps, one correction to increase flatness is to re-roll the entire lawn with an appropriately weighted roller or top dressing low lying areas with high quality compost. We found that using a combination of both will significantly lessen the bumpiness of the lawn.
When rolling the lawn, avoid rolling when wet. You risk damaging the lawn through compaction. And when top dressing, limit thickness to about .25". You may also mix your top dressing material with sand or decomposed granite. The granules in sand or decomposed granite helps level the lawn. We are aware that estimating how thick is .25" is hard to estimate on the job, so simply make sure the grass blades are still visible. As long as you see grass blades on top of the top dressing, you will not smother the lawn. Afterall, your lawn is alive! The lawn will do whatever it takes to get the much needed sunlight.
Inspect the Lawn for Drainage Problems
Has your lawn always been too muddy to walk on? Is it always wet? Does it have a swampy smell? If all these are true, you may have a drainage issue. The builder wants the water to flow away from the house's foundation. Sometimes, however, the water runoff is set to an extreme. A drainage problem is commonly found near the fence line, around edges of the property line, near the backyard gate, or along the A/C. Drainage problems may cause your lawn to recede as it gets smothered with water, exacerbated by anaerobic condition. There are quite a number of options to correct this issue and lessen excessive water runoff. Your lawn and landscape professional may recommend gutters, explore the creation of a rain garden beds on low lying areas, creation of physical drain like a french drain, or re-grading the lawn to lessen the steep runoff, then maybe using rocks to slow down or reroute excessive water runoff, among others. Your first call to action, however, is to identify the issue as soon as possible before the need for extensive re-sodding. Afterall, this is your new home!
Use larger river rocks of about 1" or more strategically to slow down water runoff. We use river rocks along gutter down spouts, pathways, or garden beds to control the velocity of water flow to lessen erosion. Make sure to watch how the entire environment react on these specific locations when it rains. Observe water flow both before installation and afterwards. There is no other substitute for observing mother nature. Even the civil engineers do this, why wouldn't you?
The Plant Beds Do NOT Have Weed Barriers. What should you do?
Quickly check what is underneath the existing landscaped plant beds. Is it just bare soil? Do you see a black plastic, a white fabric, or a cardboard box? Most likely than not, your plant bed only has bare soil underneath the mulch. This means that sooner or later your plant beds will be riddled with unwanted weeds.You need some kind of a natural barrier from the ground to suppress and prevent weeds. The key, therefore, is prevention. Prevention will save you a lot of time and money.
To prevent unwanted weed germination in plant beds without weed barriers, you can employ several natural strategies that minimize the need for chemical herbicides and promote a healthier garden ecosystem:
1. Use cover crops and native plants: Planting cover crops or native plants can help suppress weeds by competing for resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients. These plants can form a dense canopy that shades out weeds, making it difficult for them to germinate and grow. Native plants are particularly advantageous, as they are well-adapted to local conditions, and can provide habitat for beneficial insects and wildlife.
2. Apply a thicker layer of mulch: Using a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, leaves, or grass clippings, can help block sunlight and prevent weed seeds from germinating. Mulch also helps retain soil moisture and improve soil health, making it more challenging for weeds to establish. Maintain a consistent mulch layer of about 2-4 inches, refreshing it as needed to keep weed growth at bay.
3. Hand-pulling and hoeing: Regularly hand-pulling weeds or using a hoe to remove them can help keep weed populations under control. By removing weeds before they have a chance to set seed, you can reduce the number of weed seeds in the soil and prevent future infestations. Be sure to remove the entire root system to prevent regrowth.
4. Solarization: If you have a particularly problematic weed infestation, you can use solarization to kill weeds and their seeds. This involves covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. The heat trapped under the plastic will kill weeds, seeds, and some soil-borne pests and diseases, giving you a clean slate to start your planting.
5. Plant densely: Plant your desired plants close together to create a dense canopy that shades out weeds and competes for resources. This can help limit the space available for weeds to grow and can result in a more productive and visually appealing garden.
6. Cultivate soil regularly: Turning over the soil with a garden fork or tiller can help disrupt the weed seed bank by burying seeds too deep for germination or exposing them to sunlight, which can reduce their viability. However, take care not to over-cultivate, as this can damage soil structure and promote erosion.
7. Implement a no-till approach: In some cases, adopting a no-till gardening method can help reduce weed growth by preserving soil structure and limiting the exposure of buried weed seeds to the surface, where they can germinate.
By combining these natural weed suppression techniques, you can create a more sustainable, low-maintenance garden that minimizes the need for chemical weed control and promotes a healthier, more balanced ecosystem.
Avoid using weed and feed products or any kind of synthetic herbicides. These products have been shown to have adverse effects to our environment, the fish population, birds and bees. Use the strategies we listed above.
Inspect for Mature Deciduous Trees
Walk around the lawn to check for deciduous trees like Live Oaks, Maple, and Ash that are all over Austin. Are you going to need to remove leaves in Fall and Winter? This will help you and your lawn care professional plan for the materials needed for your landscape and plant beds. We recommend to simply mulch these leaves back to the lawn in winter. The result may not be aesthetically pleasing, but these mulched leaves will eventually be reabsorbed by the lawn come Spring. If leaves are not getting broken down, spray the area with actively aerated compost tea. The live microbes will help breakdown the mulch. This is much hundreds of dollars cheaper than removing the leaves. The last is to get your provider to come by every couple of weeks to spend time bagging the leaves. Avoid leaving the leaves on the lawn for a prolonged period. This will cause an almost 100% increase in dandelions and crabgrass infestation, according to Michigan State University.
Ask your lawn care provider to spray Actively Aerated Compost Tea treatments regularly. This is penny on the dollar when compared to a full leaf cleanup. Doing it this way, you'll be saving money and at the same time enriching your lawn's soil with organic matter.
RELATED: Would you like to know about The Easiest Way to Remove Leaves?
2. Maintenance Schedule Checklist
Recurring Lawn Mowing Begins
Lawn mowing is a very important part of your overall lawn maintenance program. We strongly recommend weekly lawn mowing to ensure you get the best quality cut. If you are looking to save a little money, then bi-weekly mowing can sometimes work. It is, however, very hard to get a great looking lawn on a bi-weekly interval. To get the best, weekly interval is the way to go.
There is a lot that goes on behind mowing the lawn. First, ensure the mower blades are very sharp. When using lawn care professionals, one way to know if the blades are dull is by looking at the cut immediately after mowing. A grass blade must be crisp and should not have rugged brown edges. Rugged edge is a telltale sign of dull blades. And dull blades will increase the chances of infection and lengthen the grass' recovery time. Imagine having multiple wounds instead of just one.
When mowing the lawn, make sure to cut appropriately to the season. This means not cutting too short in the summer or too high in the winter. Cutting too short when it is hot will cause heat stress and the lawn to recede. Cutting too long in the winter will keep the lawn very moist in the cold and encourage disease causing fungus to take. Generally, do not cut more than a third of the grass during normal maintenance. This will lessen stress. Cut in different directions to lessen lawn rot and soil compaction. Doing this lessens missed areas and cuts the lawn very flat. This will give you the professionally manicured look everyone desires.
In general, lawn mowing is recommended at least once every week for best results during Spring, Summer, and Fall, and once every month during Winter. If going for a weekly interval is beyond the monthly budget, then going for once every 2 weeks in Spring, Summer, and Fall, and once every month and a half in the Winter will suffice.
Bag clippings when weeds are present to lessen infestation. Do this as needed. Weed by hand as necessary. It is best to add organic matter, fertilize, aerate, and weed regularly during the season. You will notice when the lawn has thickened and fully recovered. From here on, you will simply be maintaining the lawn.
RELATED: Would you like to learn more about How to Properly Mow a Lawn?
Core aeration alleviates soil compaction. Compaction is more prevalent to older lawns than newer ones. A telltale sign your lawn has a compacted lawn is weak grass growth on localized areas. Typically, you will find these areas when people take regular shortcuts walking unto the lawn. Walking on the lawn is generally not bad for the lawn. But sometimes, new homeowners are not aware that walking on the lawn while the lawn is still moist or otherwise wet will eventually cause soil compaction on both new and older lawns. This is where core aeration kicks in. Core Aeration makes it easier for air, water and movable nutrients to flow much freely throughout the soil. This in turn gives the grass roots the opportunity to grow deeper into the soil, making the lawn hardy to sudden drought. Generally, aeration is recommended at least once a year. For areas experiencing more traffic, we recommend twice a year, once in Spring and another in Fall. Only aerate the lawn during the growth phases of the season. Be careful when aerating lawns with a sprinkler system as sprinkler heads can easily be damaged by the aerator.
Aerate and Top dress at the same time. Top Dressing uses a soil mix which adds organic matter into the soil and can also be used to build up soil flora. When combined with core aeration, the organic matter can be placed deeper into the soil profile to manipulate the soil structure. It also lessens traffic stress and alleviates soil compaction. Sometimes, when the soil's pH level is just a little off, top dressing may be enough to make minor adjustments.
RELATED: Would you like to explore more about The Benefits of Lawn Core Aeration?
Lawns are recommended do a soil test first before fertilizing the lawn. A trusted provider typically provides FREE soil fertility tests to avoid over fertilization. If they do not provide this service, you will be overpaying for services you may not need. We generally recommend to fertilize once in every month of March, May, July, September, and November AS NEEDED. Make sure to organic granular slow release fertilizers to avoid burning the lawn. This will eliminate 99% of the problems with synthetic fertilizers. Organic fertilization with corn gluten meal can also prevent the spread of weeds and make the lawn very healthy. Remember, we recommend to perform a soil test first in order to have a baseline of the amount of N-K-P the lawn needs, and its pH level. Note that fertilization will not correct the lawn's pH level. What it will do, however, is to add nutrients back into the lawn. Organic fertilizers, unlike synthetic salt-based fertilizers, will add nutrients AND organic matter back into the lawn, which is essential to increase nematode and beneficial microorganism population. If the pH level needs to be corrected, you may use lime or aluminum sulfate to raise or lower the pH level back to the ideal range of around 7.0. Adding organic compost, peat moss, and other naturally found materials will increase organic matter in the soil and also slightly adjust the pH level. When fertilizing, we recommend adding a professionally brewed actively aerated compost tea to help break down thatch, organic matter like leaves, and increase the lawn's bacterial and beneficial microbe count to help in the natural nutrient cycle.
Use organic slow release fertilizers and naturally found soil amendments to improve the lawn's soil and nutrient composition.
RELATED: Would you like to learn more about Our Full Organic and Natural Fertilization Program?
Mulch Installation and Mulch Turning
Mulch adds a layer of protection from drought and sudden freeze, but limit mulch thickness to 4", as adding too much mulch will smother the roots. If your plant beds have old mulch, make sure to turn the mulch at least once a year. This helps against soil compaction and revitalizes the look of the mulch for the season. Turning old mulch also helps in making sure air gets into the bottom of the mulch and aid in decomposition of organic matter, like leaves. Turning mulch can be a great time to weed the beds as well. Light weeding will still be recommended at least once a year for optimal results, even with a weed fabric.
Not all mulches are created equal. Make sure to inspect the mulch color, cut quality, and cleanliness. It is not unusual to find mulch that has trash mixed in, varying cut quality, and with sub-par pigments.
RELATED: Would you like to understand more about your Groundcover Options?
Perennial Tree and Shrub Trimming and Pruning.
Perennial trees and shrubs in general are recommended to be pruned in the winter when they are dormant. This allows trees and srubs to use all the nutrients available to grow in Spring. Selective pruning can also be utilized at this time of the year to prevent cross branches from becoming a safety hazard or damaging sidings or roof. Aside from these, trimming and pruning can add shape and exquisite look to your landscape especially during the holidays.
Avoid trimming too deep into the foliage. Some plants like Box Shrubs or Rosemaries won't recover on once the damage has been done. The best alternative is to do selective pruning first, letting the plant recover and grow foliage inside, before finally shaping to the desired size and shape. With plants as with people, slow is fast.
Check soil nutrients regularly.
Sharpen blades everytime you mow.
This is the best time to do landscaping work!
- Turn existing mulch. If laying new mulch, lay cardboard boxes first to suppress weeds. This is a practice we borrowed from permaculture.
- Aerate the lawn with core aeration & lay organic top dressing.
March: (turn on sprinklers!)
- Spread organic corn gluten fertilizer to your lawn and plant beds to suppress unwanted vegetation, and then water immediately!
- Spring cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.
- Use organic tree fertilizer for shrubs & trees; spray Actively Aerated Compost Tea (AACT) Treatment on the foliage for disease suppression.
- Mowing: set mower height to at least 3”, and always mulch clippings. If you have weeds popping up, bag clippings to suppress it.
May: Ask us for your FREE SOIL TEST before spreading organic lawn fertilizers & spraying with AACT. Why? You may not need fertilization this month! Do not over-fertilize. Movable nutrients from fertilizers of any kind will simply leach into our natural rivers and lakes.
June: Deep watering begins & set mowing height to 4”. You will increase your chances of getting weeds if you mow any lower.
- Recheck soil nutrients with our FREE SOIL TEST first before spreading lawn fertilizer & respraying with AACT. Remember, the dates are GUIDES only. Your lawn's total immediately available nutrients is what we are looking for.
- Fertilize shrubs & trees as needed, & respray with AACT. You can check the foliage for any signs of malnutrition.
August: Summer cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.
- OVERSEED & spread organic lawn fertilizer & spray with AACT. Make sure to check the soil nutrient levels first before fertilizing.
- Return to normal watering levels & set mowing height back to at least 3”.
October: Fall cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.
November: Reapply organic lawn fertilizer & AACT treatment as needed. If it's a hot winter, apply corn gluten fertilizer to prevent seeds from rooting.
- Winter cleanup: prune shrubs & trees; clean plant beds.
SOME TECHNICAL INFORMATION FOR FREE ORGANIC BEST PRACTICES GUIDE
a. Spread organic corn gluten fertilizer at a rate of up to 20 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. for coverage against weeds; water immediately. b. Spread GP organic lawn fertilizer at a rate of 12.8 lbs./1,000 sq. ft.; 25.6 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. if overseeding. c. Use organic tree fertilizer in a 1” x 12” hole spaced 2’ apart along drip line at a rate of 5 lbs./trunk-diameter-inch; for shrubs, 5 lbs./100 sq.ft. or 1 lb./shrub root area. d. AACT: bacteria dominant for lawn; fungal dominant for trees/shrubs. Contact us for FREE GUIDANCE.
Experienced gardeners know that just right before Spring is the right time to prepare for the growing season. Much like growing crops, lawns in Southpark Meadows require the same amount of preparation and care. It is not hard, but it simply takes time. Because it is vital that we get it right at the beginning of the year, we have compiled from our lawn care specialists the top 3 pro tips for a natural green lawn in Spring.
Top Pro Tip #1: Aerate the LawnIf getting a natural green lawn in Spring is your goal, then an aeration service as soon as the grass starts growing must be at the top of your list. This paves the way to expanding the root zone. Aeration shatters the soil to encourage root penetration, water infiltration, and air exploration. According to Penn State University, College of Agricultural Sciences, "Mechanical aeration provides an excellent, and probably the only, means of correcting or alleviating soil compaction which may be quite serious on many lawn areas." The idea of free movement within the soil naturally results in what we call an aerobic condition. On the contrary, blocked soil pores due to compaction which restricts the natural flow of water and air, similar to what we see in swamps, floodplains, and wetlands, is called an anaerobic condition. Both conditions have their role in nature. What we want to have, however, is a deeper root zone for our lawn. The deeper the root growth is, the healthier our lawn will be. As roots burrow more deeply into the soil, they gain more access to water reserves and immovable nutrients that the lawn needs. This promotes more germination of grass which in turn creates a lusher, thicker, and a naturally greener lawn.
Top Pro Tip #2: Mow The Leaves and All Plant Clippings Back Into The LawnMowing the leaves, grass clippings, and brush clippings back into the soil will help in getting a natural green lawn in Spring. All these "unwanted" trash is really just misunderstood organic matter. By adding all the organic plant matter back to the lawn, we are creating soils with a high organic matter content that encourages biological activity. As biological creatures in the soil tunnels through, we are naturally preventing anaerobic conditions. This is similar to aeration, only that it is done as nature intended. The lawn then will have better chances of naturally recovering from temporary soil compaction. This practice also lessens the amount of organic trash we throw away at landfills; thereby, lessening our carbon footprint in Southpark Meadows, and saving you money.
Top Pro Tip #3: Fix Bare Lawn SpotsBecause it rains almost every other week in Southpark Meadows during this time of the year, Spring is arguably the best time to fix all the bare spots on your lawn. Of course, you may do this anytime in the year with professional help. But if we are talking about the easiest time to do this in Southpark Meadows, it is right now, during Spring. Fixing the bare spots by laying seeds or sods and reconditioning the soil becomes very easy because you no longer have to worry about the summer heat. During Summer, lawn care specialists need to observe if seeds are getting too dry or if sods are showing signs of heat stress. This kind of baby sitting is eliminated by the more frequent rain and generally favorable weather conditions in Spring. Best of all, rain water from thunderstorms naturally adds a fresh amount of Nitrogen back into the soil that helps with germination and rooting. Unlike synthetic fertilizers,nitrogen and other nutrients from rain water will not burn the lawn because they are slowly broken down by microorganisms naturally found in the soil.
The cheapest, easiest, and arguably the best way to remove leaves is to simply blow the leaves towards your lawn, and mulch them with a mower. You may sometimes need to go over a few times. Nonetheless, there is no need to bag them because leaves are organic matter with nutrients that the lawn can eventually reabsorb. Running them over with a mower have been proven to improve turf quality year after year according to a Michigan State University study.
Our experience with mulching leaves back to the lawn supports the theory of producing a much greener lawn even during the winter months. We noticed no negative effects in mulching a lot of leaves on a single plot. In fact, the more we mulch the leaves, the greener the lawn became in the next growing season. Note that the leaves MUST be mulched. Blowing the leaves on one location and letting the leaves sit there will produce unwanted pests and molds. The same can be said when using leaves as mulch for plant beds. Leaves, just like any organic matter, has to be broken down and turned regularly in order to break down. Regular visits will give a similar effect, ensuring leaves don't simply stay undisturbed for a long period of time.
Professional Pet Waste Removal in Austin, Texas
Have you ever thought about how much time and effort it actually takes to be a responsible pet parent? We own a small 1 year-old Shih Tzu, and he poops around 2 or 3 times a day. His diet is primarily kibble and canned dog food, but thinking of all the other pet owners, especially those with bigger dogs out there, it gets me thinking, "How do you go about cleaning after your pet?!" Some of you may have really big dogs, some may have medium dogs, others have small dogs or even cats: regardless of the size and kind of pet you have, all of us have one thing in common… WE DISLIKE CLEANING AFTER THEM!!! PERIOD!!! When you’re relaxing and maybe watching “the blacklist” or “the flash” on Netflix, or just chilling in your South Austin home, the last thing you want to do is to get up and clean up after your pet because the lawn guys are coming anytime today. It's a cringefest right there. You start pointing fingers as to who's turn it is to clean up after your pet. No need to worry, we got your back with our professional pet waste removal service in Austin, Texas. But really, whether you get our services or not, we do hope everyone out there cleans up after their pets, one way or another.
Pet Poop Fact #1
According to Austin, Tx poop expert guide, scoopthepoop.org, pet waste, especially poop, can contain e-coli, roundworm, giardia, and other germs that can make people extremely sick. Some of these disease-causing organisms remain infectious in soil for weeks or years. To make matters worst, pet poop can contaminate lakes, rivers, and our entire water supply. Pet poop is also toxic to plants and will cause a bald spot on your lawn if left alone for weeks.
Why Clean After Your Pet? Short answer... "BECAUSE IT IS AGAINST THE LAW"!
Here is a list of ordinances in Austin, Texas for pet owners:
§ 3-4-6 DEFECATION BY A DOG OR CAT. "An owner or handler shall promptly remove and sanitarily dispose of feces left on public or private property by a dog or cat being handled by the person, other than property owned by the owner or handler of the dog or cat.”
Fine: Up to $500.
§ 15-6-112 - ACCUMULATIONS AND DEPOSIT OF WASTE PROHIBITED. (A) A person commits an offense if the person deposits, causes to be deposited, or permits to accumulate any dry or wet solid waste upon any public or private premises within the city in such a manner as to emit noxious or offensive odors or to become unsanitary or injurious to public health or safety.
§ 3-2-11 - ENCLOSURE REQUIRED. (A)(3) maintained in a sanitary condition that does not allow flies to breed or cause an odor offensive to an adjacent residence or business
Pet Poop Fact #2
# 250,000 Dogs in Austin create 150,000 pounds of dog poop per day, which is 55 million pounds of dog poop per year deposited in our city.
"BECAUSE DOG WASTE IS HARMFUL"
Aside from the fact that it is “EEEEEEEEWWWW” and it “SMELLS BAD”!
1. You won’t be able to hold your weekly barbecue parties
2. The yard will be unusable
3. It will be embarrassing to your guests
Your pet’s waste contains parasites, viruses, and various diseases that IS harmful to both people and other animals. As a precaution, it is advisable to maintain a clean and waste free environment. BE CLEAN, BE SAFE.
Your pet’s waste may attract unwanted guests, such as but not limited to: 1. Flies
Pet Poop Fact #3
Just one ounce of dog feces contains 23 million microorganisms of bacteria - nearly twice that of human waste.
"BECAUSE IT “WILL” DESTROY YOUR LAWN!"
Pet waste does not make a good fertilizer. Pet waste is toxic (as I said, it contains harmful microorganisms) and is harmful to your lawn, it causes burns on your grass and discoloring. Improperly scooping and disposing of your pet’s waste will damage your lawn and hopefully not but may be irreparable.
This may lead to bigger problems if you plan on landscaping your lawn or if you want to sell your home in the future.
Pet Poop Fact #4
Some of the common diseases that you, other people or other pets can get from pet waste:
As a pet owner should know how to clean up after your pet. Everyone in the family should know how to clean up after your pets. Maybe make it a part of your kid’s daily chores. As a way of giving a helping hand we offer daily pet waste cleaning services and/or with a small additional fee, after our mowing service.
Pet Poop Fact #5
It washes from land into our creeks and lakes and contaminates the water
- causes harmful algae and aquatic weeds to grow
- reduces oxygen in the water for fish and other animals
- makes recreational areas unsafe to enjoy
So what do you need to do to be a responsible Fur parent?
1. If possible, make sure to train your pet in doing their business in one spot only, for your convenience.
2. Have a waste disposal bag always available in an accessible place (near their “potty area”).
3. Check your lawn or waste area daily, for your pet’s waste.
4. Teach your children to clean up after your pet
5. Make sure to always wash and clean your hands after taking care of your pet’s waste.
6. ALWAYS DISPOE OF THE WASTE “PROPERLY”.
Pet Poop Fact #6
Your pet’s waste can cause water pollution. When it rains, pet waste left on trails, sidewalks and grassy areas can wash into the nearest waterway. Even if you can't see signs of water near you, the feces wash into storm drains and then travel to your neighborhood creek or lake untreated.
As much as we want to do it maybe once a week or once a month, it is really not possible. Since your pet, a dog for example, may poop more than once a day. So make sure to clean after your pet on a daily basis and that should be fine.
Pet Poop Fact #7
Roundworm eggs last for years, because of this dog waste should not go in compost that will end up as vegetable garden fertilizers. Hookworms are a concern in sandy areas where people are on the beach or barefoot in parks and playgrounds since these worms will migrate under the skin, causing scars
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